Les Rendezvous - Meeting Expectations!

A recent dose of that ghastly modern phenomenon, the "feedback session", suggested that Your Humble Correspondent needed to somehow adjust the equally ghastly "work-life balance". Actually, it was already apparent that there was a surfeit of "work" - the YHC Over-Work Alarm kicks in at a little over one hour per day, and the klaxons were screaming.

So a brief moment's thought poolside at the wretchedly work-a-day Hilton Spa and Resort in Guam convinced me to immediately reach out to similarly minded individuals, and lift the "life" component significantly toute de suite. Ergo, an urgent missive to my Stern friend saw us headed to Les Rendezvous in Nishi-Azabu at the recommendation of the wretched Dominic; wretched only because he always seems to find these places before Your Humble Correspondent!

Les Rendezvous provides a wonderfully imaginative approach to the dining experience: it features good to very good French cuisine with good to very good Australian wine. Now, a warning to the wise: do not try this at home ... it requires an expert hand, and rafts of courage. Ikai-san (sommelier; waiter, CEO, dreamer) used a Working Holiday Visa experience in Australia to create more than one life's worth of ideas and inspiration. Chef Tsuruoka shares a remarkable vision with Ikai-san, and matches an eclectic and good value wine list with some remarkable efforts out of such a small kitchen.

The dream, of course, is to move to their own space (isn't it always?). The chairs don't match yet, and the decor is spartan (referencing the ancient Greek city-state's military camps perhaps?). But the effect is openly friendly, and the service always delivered with a smile and a sense of sharing rather than performance.

We chose the Degustation @ Y7,200 ... excellent value, and a chance to test Chef's mettle. The Jambon cuit sauce gribiche starter was home-made and therefore sweet and moist; its companion Amuse enough to hold interest while not distracting one's attention. The fish course - Sébaste pôelée sauce tomates fraîches (Pan fried rockfish fresh tomato sauce) - showed a deft, even dab, hand in the kitchen and was served with out the horrid dessication that a warming tray inevitably bestws. Our meat course was a wonderful domestic pork dish, with hints of wa-fu citrus and a delicate touch of herbs. We opted for cheese instead of dessert.

Les Rendezvous' wine list is best viewed via the iPad on offer, although Ikai-san should make sure it stays up to date and is kitted out with some tasting notes and advice rather than just being a pdf of a type-witten summary. Pricing is fair and reasonable - so that YHC was able to purchase sufficient to ensure he neither remembers the vineyard(s) nor the vintage(s)! Beer should move on from Malts, although Suntory was kind enough to donate the icebox and we should acknowledge their generosity if not flavor.

In summary, Les Rendezvous is what it sets out to be - a neighborhood bistro that welcomes your custom on a regular basis, and doesn't seek to replace your special venues as places for celebration. It is ... unashamedly ... the restaurant Your Humble Correspondent would like to set up once the work-life balance meter hits 100% (life). Go along with friends and lovers, but book ahead. I fear this is the sort of place that is going to get popular.

Pip! Pip!


Les Rendezvous: 3-13-20 Hide bldg. B1, Nishiazabu, Minato-ward. t: 03-5410-8110
Rating: Food: 7/10; Wine: 7/10; Service: 7/10; Ambiance: 7/10; Price-Performance: 8/10. Total: 36/50 (3 Forks)

EOIT rates the Michelin 2011 Tokyo 2-Stars

What is it, Gentle Reader, that makes the difference between a 3-Star and a 2-Star?

One could be tempted to suggest that at least for the Tokyo Michelin Guide 2011 that difference lies in some gourmandesque battle between Japanese and Western cuisines among the beknighted Inspecteurs Michelin. The proportion of non-Japanese venues among the 2-Stars "feels" higher than the 3-Star list, but reading between the lines of the commentary one can't help but get a feeling that there is some sort of jingoism at play.

And yet, if one assumes that the target audience for said Guide includes the Office Ladies and Gentlemen plus the faux-gourmands of the "international set" (kokusai-ha) of Japan then the preponderance of Japanese restaurants may indeed be a mathematical oddity as the good people at Michelin claim. Not likely, but certainly a possibility.

Still, it might be interesting to survey Guide buyers to determine how many of the starred restaurants which seat 11 or 15 people they are actually able to afford to visit. A less kind perspective would be that these are "wrapping paper" rankings and not meant to guide any sensible diner's selection. You will no doubt notice that Your Humble Correspondent has a slightly different set of ratings.

Aimee Vibert French Tel: 03-5216-8585; 14-1 Nibancho, Chiyoda-ku. EOIT Rating: 3 Forks
The setting is elegant, and the Ile de France cuisine gentle on the fork and perhaps the imagination. Chef Wakatsuki is hugely talented, yet one gets the impression that tradition and pomp are rather over-weighted to keep up with the "tone" of the neighbourhood. Think Knightsbridge, Belgravia and Chelsea. Think cuisine classique. Think JPY35K per person.

Ajiman Fugu Tel: 03-3408-2910; 3-8-8 Roppongi, Minato-ku. EOIT Rating: 3 Forks
There is a awful lot going on here at Ajiman, and it is perhaps a little unapproachable for fugu novices. At the same time, there is a warm sense of professionalism and the Matsubara clan make for a tight counter and "floor" team (there is actually no floor to speak of). Getting reservations can sometimes be a chore, and the JPY40K+ bill at the end can leave one shaking one's head at the profitability inherent in audacity.

Argento Aso Italian contemporary Tel: 03-5524-1270;9F, ZOE Ginza, 3-3-1 Ginza, Chuo-ku. EOIT Rating: 4 Forks
The wonders of alphabetical ordering make this the first of the Hiramatsu Group restaurants in the Guide, although it perhaps does not deserve such prominence within the HG's 24 venues (and counting!). The formality and precision of the operation is typical of a Hiramatsu venue, and this military style can sometimes carry over to the food. Still, a very feminine venue that is bound to impress first-time visitors. JPY30K.

Chugoku Hanten Fureika UP! Chinese Tel: 03-5561-7788; 3-7-5 Higashi Azabu, Minato-ku. EOIT Rating: 3 Forks
This is the jewel in the crown of the five restaurant Fureika group, and boasts an elegant setting to match the very high quality Chinese cuisine on offer. This is Japanese-style traditional Chinese fare, so don't expect any surprises in terms of contemporary cooking. The service style and high-end customer service strike some as a little hide-bound. Expect a bill of about JPY30K each.

Crescent French Tel: 03-3436-3211; 1-8-20 Shiba-Koen, Minato-ku.  EOIT Rating: Barely 3 Forks
Hmmm. The first impression here is faux Victorian - the splendid building was constructed seventy years too  late for the dumpy Dowager Queen in 1968. The cuisine follows the same basic trend: this is definitely cuisine classique with a heavy dose of fin de siecle trills and frippery. The business was originally an antique dealer, and based on the food likely still is. The addition will be about JPY30K each.

Cuisine Michel Troisgros French contemporary Tel: 03.5321.3915 Hyatt Regency Hotel 1F, 2-7-2 Nishi-Shinjyuku , Shinjuku-ku. EOIT Rating: 4 Forks
Good friends swear by this place, and this is one Michelin rating that Your Humble Correspondent can wholeheartedly support. The cuisine matches the very contemporary architecture of the Shinjuku area, and at times leans heavily towards a constructionist approach. Service is, of course, excellent. While the location is a little down-market, this restaurant certainly is not and well worth the JPY20K you'll pay.

Daigo Shonin Tel: 03-3431-0811 Forest Tower 2F, 2-3-1 Atago , Minato-ku EOIT Rating: 4 Forks
As far as we know, there are no other 2-star Buddhist temple cuisine restaurants in the world. While this alone is ample reason to visit, you will be amazed at the stunning food and the remarkably tranquil experience at Daigo. Although the overarching philosophy is ahisma or non-violence, "vegetarian" is an entirely adequate shortcut. This may be the most refreshing JPY20K you will spend in Tokyo.

Fugu Fukuji Fugu  Tel: 03-5148-2922; 3F Koda Bldg, 5-11-13 Ginza, Chuo-ku  EOIT Rating: 3 Forks
Here they go with the poisonous fish thing again. To be sure, EOIT rates this place above Usuki which somehow garnered a 3-star rating. There's a whole lot more originality at Fukiji for a start, and everyone seems frightfully busy although JPY30K seems a little steep. Perhaps the rent is high ...

Fukudaya Kaiseki Tel: 03-3261-8577 6-12 Kioicho, Chiyoda-ku. EOIT Rating: 5 Forks
An invitation to Fukudaya is a sure sign one has finally made the "Big Time". This kaiseki-ya has been serving refined food that pleases both eye and palate for 70 years, although there are those who see that tradition as a mere bagatelle compared to other venues (mostly un-Michelin-ed). Be invited rather than inviting, as JPY50K + per head can empty a bank account faster than YHC can drink a coupe de champagne.

Fukuju UP! Kaiseki Tel: 03-3571-8596 5F, 8-8-19 Ginza, Chuo-ku EOIT Rating: 2 Forks
Fukuju has lifted its rating from 1- to 2-stars. Heaven knows why! Perhaps the service and quality goes up as the inspectors become jourenkyaku at some of these venues. There are 8 counter seats and a private room for 8 - and the experience will cost a massive JPY60K per person. You're paying more for exclusiveness than excellence - this is one kaiseki where you won't bump into Your Humble Correspondent!

Harutaka UP! Sushi Tel: 03-3573-1144; Kawabata Building 3F, 8-5-8 Ginza, Chuo-ku. EOIT Rating: 4 Forks
If you ask sushi chefs and industry-insiders where they head for sushi, they will invariably tell you Harutaka. It may be an age thing, but there seems to be more energy and a greater sense of a shared journey of discovery with Harutaka Takahashi. An excellent thing, and a welcome change from the discipleship required at some venues ranked higher. Dinner will cost about JPY20K. Visitors: You should choose to go here!

Hatsunezushi Sushi Tel: 03-3731-2403; 5-20-2 Nishi-Kamata, Ota-ku. EOIT Rating: NOT YET!
One needs to be an explorer to find Hantsunezushi, way out in Ota Ward (Actually, it's only a little over 350m from JR Kamata Station). YHC refrains from restaurants where one needs sustenance en route, so we haven't ventured out this far into Tokyo's suburban jungle. On Tabelog, it only rates 3.62 out of 5, which suggests a little elitism on the part of the Guide. The rumor is that you'll need about JPY20K per person.

Hishinuma Kaiseki Tel:03-3568-6588 B1F, AXIS Bldg, 5-17-1 Roppongi, Minato-Ku EOIT Rating: 4 Forks
Gadzooks, Gentle Reader! Les Inspecteurs have snuck one in on us here. Probably the most approachable kaiseki in Tokyo, with a natty little wine list to go along with it. Very popular, and you should get the butler to make a reservation ahead of time. Easy to find (if you can get past the French Fries upstairs at Va Tout), and well worth the JPY20K per head.

Horikane Japanese Contemporary Tel: 03-3280-4629 ; 1F, Maison ITO, 5-10-13 Shirokanedai, Minato-Ku. EOIT Rating: NOT YET
That ravenously popular Japanese site Tabelog only rates Horikane at 3.37, although that probably reflects the expectations of the younger crowd who contribute to said site. The menu sounds sublime. Expect about JPY30K per person in "damage". YHC will toddle along shortly.

Come back regularly, there's MORE TO FOLLOW ...

EOIT rates the Michelin 2011 Tokyo 3-Stars

Tokyo is, apparently, the culinary capital of the world. So much so that it boasts 266 venues that rate at least one Michelin star. That number is even more impressive when one considers that there are only 7 inspectors (all Japanese) and they can only visit a small percentage of Tokyo's 200,000 eating establishments.

But methinks it is time for some kaizen, laddies. One gets the overwhelming impression from the 2011 edition that Tokyo is rather the capital of Japanese cuisine, which it absolutely should be. I'm all for celebrating washoku-arity, but something is amiss and the whiff of a synthesized Japo-Gallic arrogance is in the air.

At the same time, Tokyo is home to a stunning array of non-Japanese restaurants which I fear M. Michelin is ignoring in order to keep sales of the guide at 150K. A nice little earner, I'm sure, but in the view of Your Humble Correspondent sells the Edo dining experience considerably short. Perhaps, Sir, you might enlist even one non-Japanese reviewer so that we can see balance restored.

Here's the list of this year's Michelin 3-stars listed alphabetically:
Araki (Debut) Sushi Tel: 03-3545-0199 Sunlitte Ginza II 1F 5-14-14 Ginza, Chuo-ku
If any sushi restaurant deserves the express elevator straight to the top of the Michelin rankings, then it is surely Araki. In my particular and peculiar opinion, there is more show than sushi - but then again, see the "trencherman" comment to the right of the page!

Esaki Japanese Contemporary Tel: 03-3408-5056 Hills Aoyama B1F, 3-39-9 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku
For a place hidden away in the residential part of Jingu-mae, Esaki gets a lot of well-deserved attention. This kaiseki restaurant focuses on food purity and "safety". Ask for the details of their organic vegetable supplier ... the produce is stunning!

Hamadaya (Rank Up) Japanese Tel: 03-3661-5940 Ningyocho, 3-13-5 Nihonbashi, Chuo-ku
Hadayama is the real deal - a passion for great ingredients, delightful presentation, and an angelic balance of flavors and textures. If you're visiting - or living here and need to impress visitors - you can't go wrong at Hamadaya.

Ishikawa Japanese Tel: 03-5225-0173 3-4 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku-ku
Kagurazaka needs another fine restaurant in the same way that London needs another pub. But if you're in this part of Tokyo, and you're in the mood for both some exploration (it's hard to find) and high-brow kaiseki, then Ishikawa fits the bill. It all seems a little pretentious for Your Humble Correspondent, but there's no doubt the food is first-rate.

Joel Robuchon French Contemporary Tel: 03-5424-1338 Ebisu Garden Place, 1-13-1 Mita, Meguro-ku
One has to question Michelin's definition of "contemporary", but this restaurant would deserve three stars whatever city it chose to grace. Probably the best cheese board on the planet, and more varieties of bread than one can possibly comprehend without reaching for multi-dimensional mathematics. Excellent wine list that doesn't forget older whites (no pun intended). Unfortunately one needs to rob a bank to enjoy the full spectrum of what M. Robuchon has to offer, but it might be worth the gaol sentence if there is time off for good behavior.

Kanda Japanese Tel: 03-5786-0150 3-6-34 Moto-Azabu, Minato-ku, Tokyo
Your Humble Correspondent's previous Hellhole was in Moto-Azabu, and Kanda was that place that one always wanted to visit but never got around to ... Lack-a-day friends who have visited (but failed to invite) say that the food here is remarkable even for a three-star.

Koju Japanese Tel: 03-6215-9544 8-5-25 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo
If you were, God forbid, at a gastronomic short end in Ginza then Koju is restaurant enough to restore your faith in food. Exceptional seasonal produce, with the finesse and delicacy of Japanese cuisine on display here. Chef Toru Okuda is a proudly confident master of his trade.

Quintessence French Contemporary Tel: 03-5791-3715 5-4-7 Shirokanedai, Minato-ku
Not on your Nellie! There is way too much ego and energy on the table at Quintessence to deserve a three star rating. While Chef Shuzo Kishida is still only 36, there is no doubt he can cook. But he can't control an agressive floor team whose poor manners drag down a good restaurant.

7chome Kyoboshi (Rank Up) Tempura  Ozio Ginza Bldg 6F, 5-5-9 Ginza, Chuo-ku
Interesting choice by Michelin ... no doubt the best tempura in the world, but 3-stars? For sheer virtuosity and creativity, this is one restaurant you should try if visiting Tokyo. Save you pennies, because it is certainly not cheap. Sakakibara-san does amazing things with batter and bits, but after all it is just a fish-fry. This is one sign that the all-Japanese Michelin inspector team has got things a little out of whack. In Japanese, a little too マニアック (or, the dude's gone mono on us)!.

Sukiyabashi Jiro Honten Sushi Tel: 03-3535-3600 , Tsukamoto Bld. B1F, 2-15 Ginza 4-chome, Chuo-ku
Jiro Ono is 84 years old and he's not going to be hurried by anyone. He says he has one more year at the helm of the best sushi restaurant in the world. The thing to notice here is the quality of the rice, and the intensity of the food - to the eye, to the mouth, to the brain. English speakers are only entertained at the Roppongi venue, so if you don't speak Japanese you need to find a friend... quick. This is seriously the one sushi experience you don't want to miss.

Sushi Mizutani Sushi Tel: 03-3573-5258 Seiwa Silver Building B1F, 8-2-10 Ginza, Chuo-ku
Mizutani-san is very serious about sushi, and you had better be as well if you get along to this fabulous 10 seat temple to fish. The location near Shimbashi station is good, and the price is good value (actually, that's a relative statement because good sushi is never cheap). The art is in the selection of the fish, they say, and there is no better example than Sushi Mizutani.

Sushi Saito Sushi Tel: 03-3589-4412 Nihon Jitensha Kaikan 1F, 1-9-15 Akasaka, Minato-ku
Sigh! Why on earth one would take a superb sushi-ya and move it to outside the US Embassy well away from "sushi alley" in and around Tsukiji / Ginza is beyond me. I think the 2009 rating of 2-stars is probably closer to the mark. Sushi Saito is all about Saito-san, and he's always happy to lecture diners (in Japanese) about the art and cant of sushi. Perhaps it's that personal attention that has attracted the eye of Michelin inspectors. Calm down boys!

Usukifugu Yamadaya (Rank Up) Fugu Tel: 03-3499-5501 Fleg Nishi-Azabu, 4-11-14 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku
Nothing like a little poison to spice up your ranking! The Japanese passion for the poisonour puffer fish is well know, although it's all a little over the top if you ask me. If you're lucky to be one of the 23 people seated (22 if you go with me) here, you had better have about JPY30K in your pocket because this place is not cheap. Perhaps the fish fly first class on their daily journey from Usuki in Kyushu. But remember, several people die every year from Fugu poisoning in Japan ... although no-one can remember the last time it happened here.

Yukimura Japanese Tel: 03-5772-1610 3F, 1-5-5 Azabu-Juban, Minato-ku
There is no doubt this place is the pick of the kaiseki 3-stars. You'd never know, as it is located on the 3rd floor in a nondescript building in the Azabu Juban. But the things he does with food ... oh be still my racing heart! Be warned: no tables, only 11 counter seats, and a prix fixe. You should be thinking JPY40K.

Restaurant Davis - Hidden Treasure

The article in the Japan Times about Restaurant Davis some two years by the effable Robbie Swinnerton caused Your Humble Correspondent no end of consternation, Gentle Reader. The Once and Future Blonde pointed out said article, and asked why we had not yet visited such a fine establishment. To which one could only respond "dunno", in the best traditions of conjugal communication. That started a brief but energetic campaign targeted at Mr. Davis in a vain attempt to earn an invitation. Foolish, really ... he was really far too busy with matters economical, and had the undoubted good taste to murmur something soothing before turning his face away to concentrate on other, more socially reliable interlocutors.

Mrs. Davis, on the other hand, has been welcoming vagabonds for some 12 years in the Takanawa edition of Restaurant and Wine Bar Davis, along with a brief interlude in a second venue in the vicinity of Daimon. In my humblest of opinions, this is a restaurant that you should mark down in your little red book as a "keeper". Well-oiled and efficient are words that come to mind at first blush, but that would take something away from the wonderful food and wine; and the atmosphere redolent with ... umm ... restaurantness. Mrs. Davis has a very good chef with her here, and the home-made (jikasei) anything is well worth trying. Meats - particularly those that might cause another less-capable to tremble - roll out of this kitchen. One hears that Christmas sees roast goose and traditional Xmas pudding available to the lucky few with the foresight to book early.

 

The seafood is sourced from reliable providors all over Japan, and Chef shows a deft hand here as well. Firmness and flakiness are the mark of any good fish, and the dish that YHC shared with The Texan Ranger (Note to self: I wonder if he found it difficult to find R&WBD?) was testament to a deep vein of experience and flair. The pastas should neither be overlooked, with excellent seasonality and full flavors.

 

Above all, one mustn't ignore the wine list. Others have offered fulsome praise, which can only be echoed in these dreary pages. But the refreshing thing about Mrs Davis' list is that it is both eclectic and representative of the world's major vignobles, showing discernment and a firm hand on the rudder.

 

There are those who complain that Restaurant Davis is hard to find: Pshaw! It is actually quite simple really, and only took Your Humble Correspondent about 30 minutes from 150 meters away. One feckless approach might be:

1. Ask your reinsman to take you to Takanawa Police Station...
2. Across the street is the Takanawa Fire Station with a natty fire observation tower (rodai) adorning the roof ...
3. It may be useful to take the tour of the Fire Station which includes the observation deck so that you can eyeball your eventual destination ...
4. Head north along the road towards Tokyo Tower until your reach the first street to your right ...
5. Delight your companion by buying a flower, and then ...
6. Turn right (east) until you hit the first road on your left...
7. Turn left (north) until you see the sign for Restaurant Davis on the left...
8. Complain that it is difficult to find. You'll be in good company.

A word on the l'addition - Restaurant Davis is remarkably ... well, cheap ... for the value received and one should not doubt Mrs Davis' arithmetical skills. The bill is correct and represents real value for money.

 

 Restaurant and Wine Bar Davis should only be enjoyed with friends and lovers, and it may benefit the rest of us if you only take them once. There is no chance they will remember where it is with only one visit, and then reservations will still be readily available for Fat Boys and vagabonds!

 

Pip! Pip!
Restaurant Davis: 2-5-6 Takanawa, Minato-ku; t: 03-3440-6007
Rating: Food: 7/10; Mrs Davis-ness: 7/10; Service: 7/10; Ambiance: 7/10; Price-Performance: 9/10. Total: 37/50 (3 Forks)

China Blue - A Slice of Chinese Heaven

It's been some time, gentle Reader, since we last shared thoughts epicurean on these pages. What with my beloved Mater passing on, two of the Cost Centers being wed within eight days of each other, Your Humble Correspondent's forced exile in Yokohama, and The Once and Future Blonde being variously abroad, absent or otherwise occupied - it has been slightly frantic to say the least. Not conducive to bacchanalia at all, really.

It would be silly to suggest one hasn't dined sumptuously in the interim, but we have relied on various favorites like Trattoria Tornavento, Restaurant J, Tanger, Le Recamier, and Le garcon among others. Not content to rest on any ill-deserved laurels, we've tried some new (to YHC) venues like Restaurants Davis and Frick (Reviews coming soon). And our eyes are on some new places like Aux Chats Qui Peche in Hiroo, which opened its doors in October.

But while digression is always the better part of valor, the purpose at hand is to sing the praises of China Blue in the Conrad Tokyo [Map] at Shiodome. Awarded a Michelin star for the last three years in a row, this is a very good restaurant where Chef Albert Tse (originally of Jiang-Na Chun in Singapore) crafts elegant yet wonderfully contemporary Chinese food with a flair and élan that leaves Your Humble Correspondent begging for more. Combine this with the superb views over Hama Rikkyu park, and one might just imagine that one is part-way to Heaven … or Elysium at least!

The recent “Jasmine” lunch set that The Banker and YHC enjoyed was at once full of whimsy and weft, with peeks into many corners of the Chinese cooking genre. We started with Singapore Rice Cake, and after the mutual rapture (see Heaven, above), we immediately agreed that we were in for something special. The delicious slow-roasted pork with bread is a highly original take on both Char Siew and the soft Chinese dumpling. The Seafood Noodles combines lovingly-crafted and toothsome noodles with a veritable aquarium of seafood in a broth that brings to mind the best Tom Yum Goong. The dessert plate included sweetened sesame-ed fried noodles and an elysian elixir of passionfruit soup – a sure way to YHC’s heart!

Speaking of Michelin stars, our fair borough recently reinforced its standing as the most-starred city with 3 new restaurants at the highest level to move to 14 three-starred establishments, 54 with 2 stars, and a huge 198 one-star hostelries. To be fair, the Guide included Yokohama (2 two-stars and 14 one-stars) and Kamakura (10 one-stars) this year for a massive total of 266 venues. Nothing for it but to start at the start, and end once the doctor discovers … maybe 100 restaurants in!

In any event, do yourself an enormous favor and find an excuse to visit China Blue in the near future. It’s certainly more deserving of a star than Gordon’s co-located and eponymous place next door, and you will impress any and all punters with your choice of venue.

And if you’re one person short of a full table, a quick e-mail should be enough to have YHC present himself in all his full fat-boy glory!

Pip, pip!

China Blue [Map]: Conrad Tokyo, 1-9-1 Higashi-Shinbashi, Minato-ku, Tokyo. t: 03-6388-8000
Rating: Food: 8/10; Jasmine Tea: 8/10; Service: 8/10; Heavenliness: 8/10; Price-Performance: 8/10. Total: 40/50

Chez Tomo - A Pilgrimage

Continuing a tradition of plagiarism that began with The Mysterious Affair at Provinage, we turn to Chaucer's Canterbury Tales:

When June with his showers sweet with fruit
The drought of May has pierced unto the root
And bathed each glass with liquor that has power
To generate therein, so sweet words flower;

... And many little bloggers make prosody
That dine through all the night with open eye
(So Nature pricks them on to praise and rage)
-Then do folk long to go on pilgrimage,

... And specially from every divers end
of Japan they to restaurants wend,
The blessed tasty victuals there to seek
Which sustained them when they sat so lorn and weak

Befell that, in that season, on a day
In Mita, near Roppongi, as I lay
Ready to start upon my pilgrimage
To Shirogane, full of devout homage,

Fortunate indeed I was, Gentle Reader, to join with fellow Eaters-Out-in-Tokyo Dominic and Jon on a visit to Chez Tomo, the Michelin 1-star in Shirokane that has attracted plenty of attention. Both of my fellow correspondents, neither of them Humble, have already posted (here and here) about our experience at the hands of Chef Tomoji Ichikawa. I shan't bore you with mundane details, the telling of which they are far more suited to than your Humble Correspondent.

What both comforts and confuses me is, on the other hand, how our palates get jaded here in the Michelin-City of Tokyo. My two companions on this pilgrimage damned Chez Tomo with faint (feint?) praise - splendid venue, superb service, great attention to detail ... what ho! But just a tad disappointed with the fare were my erudite friends. Pshaw! I say to them. The food is creative and highly focused around the highest quality ingredients. Imagination and presentation are at least the grade of many an establishment garnished with 2 stars. And the fact that the main dish was not to our taste may reflect, I fear, more on the diners than the kitchen.

What your Humble Correspondent begs to submit, milords and gentle ladies, is that our collective expectations around haute cuisine in Tokyo perhaps exceeds the reality that surrounds us. Perhaps, indeed, we are all a tad spoiled. For me, Chez Tomo is an elegant and enjoyable addition to both this fair city and the Guide. Remember, one star means "worth a visit if in the area" - not "expect the stars". Visit Chez Tomo when you visit Shirogane, and when you seek to impress rather than entertain. And your Humble Correspondent? He'll blog on ...

But none the less, whilst I have time and space,
Before yet farther in this life I pace,
It seems to me accordant with good manners true
To inform you of the state of every culinary venue!!!

Chez Tomo: 5-15-5 Shirokane, Minato Ward. t: 03-5789-7731
Rating: Food: 8/10; Wine: 7/10; Service: 8/10; Ambience: 7/10; Value: ($) 8/10. Total: 38/50

L'EMBELLIR - Perplexing Pleasure [Updated with Glenn's comment]

Deepest bowing and shrill embarrassment come with this missive, Gentle Reader. I have been engaged 'in trade', forced to cast my lot with those in the unmentionable corners of society as I adjust to "employment" as a fulltime lifestyle option. To be frank, I'm working. Oh, the shame!

However, much like Lord Lucan or Princess Margaret down on their luck, I can sometimes rely on the benevolence of friends to provide the briefest glimpse of what life used to be like before I was cast into penal servitude down in Yokohama. So it was that the Child Bride and I ventured to L'EMBELLIR (why must people shout?) at the kind invitation of the munificent Sir James and Lady Ina for a wine-makers dinner featuring Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru Les Saint-Georges from Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair.

Young Master Liger-Belair is quite the new star of Nuits St-Georges, having burst onto the scene in 2002 and producing some spectacular wines that find their peak in the 2003, although I must admit to agreeing with Sir James that the 2005 is also quite toothsome with an interesting mineralization.

Chef Naoto Kishimoto opened this restaurant (which I believe is in the former Danish Embassy) in 2006, and was rewarded with a Michelin star in 2008 and 2009. There is no doubt he deserves this honour - the food is excellent, the service superb, the wine list thrilling, and the prices reasonable. This particular evening we had Galantine de gibiers Fondante d'Aubergine, Tarte Fine d'Anpo Kaki bien mur etc, Pied de porc farce de homard et Chevreuil saute au champignon, and Fraises et Fromage frais. Excellent, considering this was served a la russe to 40 diners at once.

Yet I retired from the table perplexed. I had dined here earlier with Charles and Nicole from super-trendy FivebyFifty in the week after the first Michelin star but had not posted. Why? Something is missing at L'Embellir, something almost spectral and ectoplasmic. Perhaps the ghosts of previous Danish ambassadors walk the halls, or even perhaps Danish princes.

For the life of me, Gentle Reader, I can not tell you what it is. But this restaurant somehow leaves you expecting more, but failing to deliver. Were this a more crass and tasteless blog, this would be the perfect place for some schoolboy sexual innuendo but your Humble Correspondent shall refrain. UPDATE: Glenn, who was also at the dinner, suggests that the room somehow lacks intimacy [See Comments] . I agree, and that could be it. Cuisine Classique served in a harsh post-modern Scandinavian room is pretty soulless.

I sincerely recommend you go to L'Embellir ... this is fine and elegant dining at its third-best, and I am sure you won't blame me if something is missing. But just in case, make sure you're dining on the company's sovereign and that you venture downstairs with ladies in the group. They'll love it. And maybe you can tell me what I'm missing.

L'EMBELLIR [Map]: 4-17-33 B1F Minami-Aoyama, Minato-Ku. t: 03-3423-0131
Rating: Food: 7; Wine: 7; Service: 7; Ambiance: 7; Price: 7 ($$). Total 35/50

Le Jeu de l'assiette - No games here!

Dear Dominic is many things, Gentle Reader, but navigationally ept is not one of them. After reading his post on Le Jeu de l'assiette, I determined to venture forth with the Lordling into the wilds of Ebisu Nishi. According to the eminent Dom, the restaurant is "a few steps up the hill from the five-ways at Ebisu". Your Humble Correspondent begs to differ - it is actually quite a distance (239 metres) from the five ways. Pay no mind to either Dominic or your iPhone GPS, and be sure one's looking for establishments on the second floor!

I was exhausted, having explored vast new swathes of land for Japan and discovering at least one previously unknown tribe called the Fackarwi. These charming natives are known for their quaint habit of greeting visitors by jumping/dancing in a strange mau-mau sort of way and popping their heads above the vegetation to announce "We're the Fackarwi!". I enthusiastically joined in this ritual until I noticed the restaurant out of the corner of my eye.

I arrived to find the Lordling waiting somewhat impatiently. Odd really, because when God made time He made plenty of it. And His Lordship (sweet boy that he is) is not necessarily Mr Punctuality himself. Chef Shoehi Shimono was clattering away in the kitchen and Maitre D' Tsuyoshi Nakamura was being oddly omnipresent in a strange Norse god sort of way.

These chaps have disconcertingly linked lives - both were born outside Tokyo what seems a mere blink of time ago (1973 and 1979 respectively), both studied in a Tsuji establishment here in Japan, both toddled off to France for some study, and both were at Le Burguignon as chef and maitre d' when it opened. Chef Shimono has also worked at Troisgros in Roanne and at Taillevent in Paris - quite an impressive curriculum vitae in my book!

We chose the "White" menu which featured eight courses with such delights as Pissladiere Frites, Hagi mackarel, fois gras Poivre, a heavenly patridge and chesnut veloute, a sublime rose petal gratinee, Ezojika venison, a gorgeous warm Strawberry pieces with Vanilla bean ice cream, and the most wonderful and creative Tiramisu I've had in a long time.

Le jeu of course means "the game" and l'assiette is "plate". Chef puts a lot of emphasis on creativity and imagination, and it is easy to see that here is a restaurant where haut cuisine is the goal - a goal achieved magnificently! Each dish is a celebration of delicacy and endeavor, and is delivered with elan and alacrity by a well-trained and knowledgable floor staff. The wine list is impressive but affordable, and the service here is a treat. This venue manages to treat one like an honored friend from the moment one enters, and the meal is prepared as celebration rather than demonstration.

Le Jeu de l'assiette is a special place, perfect for friends and lovers rather than a place to impress visiting Americans. it is a foodies restaurant - best used for trysts and assignations, rather than assignments. Take my advice, Gentle Reader, and embark for deepest darkest Ebisu-Nishi at the first possible moment. But beware of the natives, and ignore Dominic's directions!

Le Jeu de l'assiette [Map]: 2-17-5 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya-Ku. t: 03-6415-5100
Rating: Food: 8; Wine: 8; Service: 8; Ambiance: 8; Price: 7 ($$). Total 39/50

Cogito - I'm Game!

One wonders, Gentle Reader, what happens to Lost Boys when they grow up. Your Humble Correspondent often feels drawn to "Nibs" because he grew up to work in an office, although there are those who would plump for "Slightly".

Chef Jitsuhiro Yamada seems to me to be a Lost Boy, although he quite definitely seems to have all his marbles and so can not be "Tootles". There are times when he seems ever-so-grown-up, and times when one feels slightly being-toyed-with. But make no mistake, Gentle Reader! Cogito is a fine restaurant in a difficult market, and one that deserves its Michelin star if only for its magnificent wine list and common-sense. Game, or gibier, is a speciality ... and a delight!

I journeyed a-pied from The Hermitage to dine with The Ad Guy ... who actually seems to have undergone a transformation himself and grown up into a Tokyo University professor. What-ho! Seems standards are slipping in the towers of academia!

We were impressed with the ambiance of comfort and reassuring elegance, and decided to slip into something a little more comfortable by way of a Sancerre. The obvious choice was the o-makase course. Feeling remarkably intellectual in the presence of The Prof, Your Humble Correspondent was not about to sully that image with a silly and irreverential, if not to say poor form, wander through the menu. What followed was a delightful little journey through high-quality ingredients, including game shot by Chef himself, the highlight of which was the Duck and Foie Gras Pie served as the main course. The meal was marked by both quality and reasonable quantity, although I'd venture this is no place for a flapper or a banker in these troubled times.

Our Morey St Denis rounded out the meal superbly, and the selection of cheeses was ample for both The Prof and I.

Chef has travelled from his Marche aux Vins in Aoyama, via Harmonie in Nishi-Azabu, to this little gem in the shadow of The Grand-ish Hyatt. Cogito is pronounced with a soft "g" as in "codger"... which word describes well the two Lost Boys who dined this evening. Visit Cogito with old friends and ex-bankers, and soak up a pleasant evening's worth of subtle flavours.

Cogito [Map]: 3-2-15 Nishi-Azabu, Minato Ward, tel: (03) 3796-3838 [sorry, no website].
Rating: Food: 8; Wine: 8; Service: 7; Ambiance: 8; Price: 7 ($$$). Total 38/50

A fistful of stars - Joel Robuchon

Gentle Reader, this may sound like heresy but is the Michelin guide a reasonable standard by which to judge chefs?

With the release of the Hong Kong/Macau guide recently, Joel Robuchon has opened up a substantial lead on his erstwhile colleagues - with 24 stars around the world compared to Alain Ducasse on 16, dear old Gordon on 12, and Thomas Keller (French Laundry, Per Se etc) on 7.

But if one works some alchemy with the math to derive my proprietary "star index", it very much looks like ubiquity (being everywhere) is not a substitute for quality (concentrating on the food). Keller, with 5 locations and 7 stars , tops the list. Robuchon (16 locations) stays in the black, but Ducasse (19) and Ramsay (21) seem more like businesses than chefs. While Zagat represents brutish democracy and should be shunned, one feels that Michelin needs to somehow get into the global village and provide we humble diners with a more "international" view.

It's a matter of some personal shame that I haven't eaten at one of Chef Keller's establishments, although I threatened to do so last year until - ever your intrepid aviator - I was shot down by the Red (Ink) Baron. We also stood a small chance of having him visit Tokyo last year, but that horse fell at the final jump. Still, I look forward to the day when we can see all of the top 4 chefs battling for wallet share in Japan.

M. Robuchon is an enigmatic character: he learned to love cooking while in boarding school. That strikes me as a rather rum piece of hagiography - when has boarding school food ever been known to excite passion? More than that, Gentle Reader ... having got his 3rd star in Paris he just up and closed his restaurant in 1996. All rather too much, he confessed.

Today, a mere handful of times around the sun later, he's the primus inter pares of the world's chefs with a much simpler approach to elegance and sophistication. His restaurants range from L'Atelier (workshop) to La Table (Table) to La Cuisine (Kitchen). And his empire extends even further than Alexander's or Octavian's - with locations in Tokyo, Hong Kong, Macau, Las Vegas, Monte Carlo, New York, Paris, London and perhaps Tel Aviv, he must have more frequent flyer miles than Condeleeza Rice.

Ramsay, or "Chef", is also busier than a ram on shearing day ... no, wait, I'm confusing work and play. But with the Gordon Ramsay Group extending into pubs and bars and even airline food, you've got to wonder how he fits it all in. Ducasse's dedication I respect, although the Benoit deal here in Tokyo was perhaps a bridge too far.

Note: Twenty One, closed down in unfortunate circumstances, has re-opened at the Shinjuku Hilton as La Pergolese Tokyo. Your Humble Correspondent will toddle along shortly, so stay tuned.

An Eater's View - Michelin Tokyo 2009

As you have probably noticed, Gentle Reader, I have been buried deep in the 2009 Guide. There are surprises, to be sure, as well as omissions and exaggerations. What can we humble diners learn from the "book"?

Suffer me to get the trivial out of the way early. Yes, the Tokyo guide is the only one in the world with a symbol to inform we namban that our shoes will need to be removed. And, yes, it is also the only one with a symbol indicating a "interesting sake list". For clarity's sake: the 2009 Guide ratings were compiled by a "home-grown" specialist team which is overwhelmingly Japanese. There is only 1 foreigner - so the shrieks of sarcastic pooh-poohing that accompanied last year's Guide (how could foreigners judge Japanese restaurants?) are no longer even worth noting.

Your Humble Correspondent was delighted to see more "new" restaurants than "classic" Tokyo fine dining establishments. Why? Above all, I believe that the classics have monopolized the Tokyo dining scene for far too long and have grown fat and lazy. Chez Matsuo is probably the only one that still excites and satisfies, but the others seem more focused on kata than cuisine.

But just as importantly, it signifies that the rating team is not overwhelmed by reputation and rightly focused on performance. Some observations:

• Recognizing Monna Lisa in Ebisu is appropriate and measured.
• Gordon Ramsay is probably relieved, and perhaps lucky.
• Edition Koji Shimomura must have been having a good night (or series of nights actually) because it was only worth 1 star the night Your Humble Correspondent fell into good company there.
• Joel Robuchon now has 7 stars in Tokyo, which may mean he is casting too bright a light.
• La Bourguignon is destined for higher things, although I fear that may mean new premises.
• Piatto Suzuki maintained its single star, which is good news for people looking for reservations ... another star, though thoroughly deserved, would have meant much more difficulty.
• Twenty One at the Tokyo Shinjuku Hilton - closed under unfortunate circumstances and therefore losing its stars - has re-opened as La Pergolese inspired by Stefan Gaborieau. Look for a starry future.
• The omission of Chikara Yamada is inexplicable.
• Alain Ducasse must have been devastated when Benoit closed after a real estate debacle, but his other restaurants fared well.
• Tatsuji Aso seems to be roaring ahead with 2 stars for Ristorante Aso and another 2 for Argento Aso. Pity it's all bound up in the 6 star Hiramatsu Group! Which, with everything from 2 stars to Cafe des pres, seems a little confused.
• The Mandarin Oriental has 3 restaurants each with 1 star - Tapas Molecular Bar, Sense, and Signature. Guess where I'll be staying if I ever need a hotel!

Strange though it is to relate, I forbear from debate on the Japanese restaurants. That would bring out the more xenophobic comments (like the criticism of the 2008 Guide). But I would point out that Japanese restaurants make up about 60% of the stars, which is only fitting.

The surprise, Gentle Reader, is that the remaining 40% represents a western food tradition in Japan of only a little more than 100 years, and that so many contemporary western restaurants made the grade. All of which bodes well for we Tokyo (or Tokyo-bound) foodies.

Winners Michelin Guide Tokyo 2009

New ☆☆☆:

• Ishikawa (5-37 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku) [Japanese] 2008: ☆☆

New ☆☆:

• Argento Aso (ZOE Ginza 8F, 3-3-1 Ginza) [Italian Contemporary] 2008: ☆
• Crescent (1-8-20 Shiba-Koen) [French] 2008: ☆
• Edition Koji Shimomura (Roppongi T-Cube 1F, 3-1-1 Roppongi) [French Contemporary] NEW
• Hatsunezushi (5-20-2 Nishi-Kamata) [Sushi] NEW
• Horikane (5-10-13 Shirokanedai) NEW
• Kadowaki (2-7-2 Azabu-Juban) NEW
• Kodama (Nishi-Azabu 1106 2F, 1-10-6 Nishi-Azabu [Japanese Contemporary] NEW
• Kondo (Sakaguchi Bldg 9F, 5-5-13 Ginza) 2008: ☆
• Le Table de Joel Robuchon (Yebisu Garden Place, 1-13-1 Mita, Meguro) [French Contemporary] 2008: ☆
• 7-Chome Kyoboshi (Ozio Ginza Bldg 6F, 5-5-9 Ginza) [Tempura] NEW
• Sushi Saito (Nihon Jitensha Kaikan 1F, 1-9-15 Akasaka) [Sushi] 2008: ☆
• Tomura (1-11-14 Toranomon) [Japanese] 2008: ☆
• Umi (3-1-8 Minami-Aoyama) [Sushi] 2008: ☆
• Yamamoto (2-15-4 Tsukiji) [Fugu] NEW
• Yukimura (Yuken Azabujuban Bldg 3F, 1-5-5 Azabu-Juban) [Japanese] NEW

New ☆ (All are NEW except where noted):

• Ayumasa (4-17-5 Shimbashi) [Japanese]
• Bice (Caretta Shiodome 47F, 1-8-1 Higashi-Shimbashi) [Italian]
• Faro (Shiseido Bldg 10F, 8-8-3 Ginza) [Italian]
• Fugu Fukuji (Koda Bldg 3F, 5-11-13 Ginza) [Fugu]
• Gordon Ramsay (Conrad Hotel 28F, 1-9-1 Higashi-Shimbashi) [French]
• Hei Fung Terrace (The Peninsula Hotel, 2F, 1-8-1 Yurakucho) [Chinese]
• Kikuchi (Minatoya Shonten Bldg 2F, 2-17-17 Nishi-Azabu) [Japanese]
• La Tour (Kojun Bldg 5F, 6-8-7 Ginza) [French]
• L'Auberge de l'ill (1-6-4 Nishi-Azabu) [French]
• La Bouguignon (3-3-1 Nishi-Azabu) [French]
• Mitsuta (1-12-15 Tsukiji) [Tempura]
• Monnalisa Ebisu (1-14-4 Ebisu-Nishi) [French]
• Raku-tei (6-8-1 Akasaka) [Tempura]
• Ristorante La Primula (Patio Azabu-Juban 3F, 2-8-10 Azabu-Juban) [Italian] NAME CORRECTED
• Sense (Mandarin Oriental Hotel 37F, 2-1-1 Nihonbashi-Muromachi [Chinese]
• Sushi Aoki Ginza (Ginza Takahashi Bldg 2F, 6-7-4 Ginza) [Sushi]
• Sushi Aoki Nishiazabu (3-23-7 Nishi-Azabu) [Sushi]
• Sushi Fukumoto (Hanabu Bldg B1F, Daizawa) [Sushi]
• Sushi Isshin Asakusa (4-11-3 Asakusa) [Sushi]
• Sushi Iwa (6-3-17 Ginza) [Sushi]
• Sushiko Honten (6-3-8 Ginza) [Sushi]
• Sushi Musashi (Adessoems B1F, 5-18-10 Minami-Aoyama) [Sushi]
• Tamao (Sanrakukan 301, 3-3-7 Azabu-Juban) [Japanese]
• Tapas Molecular Bar (Mandarin Oriental Hotel 38F, 2-1-1 Nihonbashi-Muromachi) [Fusion]
• Tateru Yoshino Shiba (Shiba Park Hotel Annex 1F, 1-5-10 Shiba-Koen) [French Contemporary] NAME CHANGED FROM Tateru Yoshino
• Tateru Yoshino Shiodome (Park Hotel Shiodome Media Tower 25F, 1-7-1 Higashi-Shimbashi) [French Contemporary] NAME CHANGED FROM Gastronomie Francaise Tateru Yoshino
• Tensei (4-1-3 Minami-Aoyama) [Tempura]
• Tetsuan (1-5-26 Azabu-Juban) [Japanese]
• Tofuya Ukai Shiba (4-4-13 Shiba-Koen) [Japanese] NAME CHANGED FROM Tofuya Ukai
• Totoya Uoshin (5-1-34 Akasaka) [Japanese]
• Tsujitome (Toraya Daini Bldg B1F, 1-5-8 Moto-Akasaka) [Japanese]
• Uemura Honten (1-13-10 Tsukiji) [Japanese] NAME CHANGED FROM Tsukiji Uemura
• Ukai-Tei Ginza (Jiji-Tsushin Bldg, 5-15-8 Ginza) [Teppanyaki] NAME CHANGED FROM Ukai-Tei
• Ukai-Tei Omotesando (Omotesando Gyre 5F, 5-10-1 Jingumae) [Teppanyaki]
• Yamaji (Ginza 7 Bldg B1F, 7-14-14 Ginza) [Japanese]
• Yamanochaya (2-10-6 Nagato-Cho) [Unagi]
• Yokoyama (2-7-10 Kotobashi) [Tempura]
• Yoshihashi (1-5-25 Moto-Akasaka) [Sukiyaki]
• Yotsuha (2-20-7 Kamiogi) [Japanese]

New Post on Rude about Food

Please see my most recent post on Rude about Food!

.t.

Michelin 3 stars for 2009

Ishikawa (石かわ) New: 3-4 Kagurazaka,Shinjuku
Kanda (かんだ): 3-6-34 Moto-Azabu, Minato
Quintessence (カンテサンス): Barbizon 25 Building, 5-4-7 Shirokanedai, Minato
Koju (小十): 8-5-25 Ginza, Chuo
Joel Robuchon (ジョエル・ロブション): Yebisu Garden Place, 1-13-1 Mita, Meguro
Sukiyabashi Sushi (すきやばし次郎鮨 ): Tsukamoto Sogyo Building B1, 4-2-15 Ginza, Chuo
Sushi Mizutani (水谷): Seiwa Silver Building B1, 8-2-10 Ginza, Chuo
Hamadaya (濱田家): 3-13-5 Nihonbashi-Ningyoucho, Chuo
L'Osier (ロオジエ): Shiseido Building, 7-5-5 Ginza, Chuo

Can you believe, Gentle Reader, that I've only been to Joel Robuchon and Hamadaya? Oh, the shame ...

Michelin Guide 2009

Gentle Reader, I am quivering with nervous excitement ... a mass of quaking jelly. The 2009 Michelin Guide launches today, and goes on sale on Friday.

Headlines:

• There is a new 3-star - Ishikawa in Shinjuku.
• 14 restaurants have got 2 stars for the first time, and there are 35 new 1-stars.
• 173 restaurants are rated this year.
• 5 more Tokyo wards have been covered for a total of 13.
• The total number of stars has increased to 227 - Tokyo is still the world's star-iest city.
• About 60% of the restaurants reviewed serve Japanese cuisine.
• Only one reviewer this year is a foreigner (can you guess who?)

Stand by for more details as various little birds whisper in my ear, Gentle Reader!

Le Bourguignon - No cause for Spiflication

Gentle Reader - winter approaches. Winter, with its hoary frosts and stiffening winds. Winter, when darkness rules the land and we walk around like the Michelin Man in several layers of clothing. Winter... the season for game in Tokyo!

Although my fellow gourmand, the inestimable Dominic, saw fit to "spiflicate" at La Bourguignon in October: he was there for luncheon, and the weather was slightly unpredictable. Your Humble Correspondent is delighted to report that La Bourguignon is neither stuffy nor slow at a more reasonable hour of the day when the office ladies have been chased home.

I sallied forth with my Stern Friend on a recent evening to indulge my Neanderthal need for the meat of wild animals, and to see why Chef Kikuchi is getting so much attention from the restaurant guides. Oh my! We were seated at a pleasantly round table to admit my girth, and showered with attention. I feared my secret identity had been betrayed, but we determined to bravely soldier on with our foray into the intracies of gibier [game] and l'abats [offal].

We started with a Carrot Mousse in Consomme gel, garnished with uni. With this simple yet dramatic flourish, Le Bourguignon established itself as a definite candidate for a Michelin star. Delicate and more-ish, yet set off by the salty wild-harvested sea urchin. And then, Gentle Reader, something to amaze and amuse - a warm eel and fois gras terrine served en croute with wild leaf salad. We enjoyed an excellent Georges Burrier 2004 Sancerre, reasonably priced and pleasantly sharp with mineral overtones.

On then to the fish - ainame (Hexagrammos otakii) for which the English name of Fat Greenling seems a little absurd. Typically a game fish, it is commercially farmed in Japan. To my great shame, your Humble Correspondent forgot to ask the efficient and friendly floor staff whether this particular example was wild or weaned. However, on a happier note, it was perfectly paired with komatsuba (a bitter green leaf similar to spinach but more astringent) and pleurote - it vanished quickly from the plates of your intrepid hunters.

For mains, you can guess that my choice was the Andouillette, which was magnificent. My dining partner chose the rarely seen fromage de tête. Rarely, if ever, do I normally regret my choice but I freely admit that my Stern Friend won this round hands down. Our red wine was a 2005 Morey St Denis Georges Lignier et Fils, which was again reasonably priced and an excellent match for our game and offal adventures.

Choose Le Burguignon for a quiet conversation with a friend or lover who knows their food. You won't be disappointed.

La Bourguignon: 3-3-1 Nishi-Azabu, Minato Ward. t: 03-5772-6244. Closed Wednesday. (Sorry, no website!)
Rating: Food: 8; Wine: 8; Service: 8; Ambiance: 8; Price: 8 ($$$). Total 40/50

A special evening at Chez Pierre!

Gentle Reader: I do not often assail your eyes with blatant advertising for particular venues or events. That would be curmudgeonry at its basest, and far beneath you and your Humble Correspondent.

However, it would also be remiss of me if I did not avail myself of this opportunity to let you know there are a small number of seats (4) available at an extraordinary wine tasting evening at Chez Pierre on Wednesday 12 November. Chef Pierre (my review will be posted next Monday) is an icon of the fine dining community in Tokyo, and the restaurant is a favorite retreat for many francophiles including your Humble Correspondent.

The event will feature the wines of Chateau d'Estoublon, a superb and cresselated estate purchased in 1999 by the Schneider family (of Breitling watches). They immediately set about restoring the imposing 18th Century Chateau and surrounding vineyards and olive groves. The result is the re-emergence of an elegant chateau willing to inspire the Baux de Provence Appellation on to even greater things.

The winemaker at this Ecocert organic chateau is Remy Reboul - apprenticed to Eloi Dürrbach who is without a doubt one of the greatest vintners of our time. The greatest, if you believe the survey conducted by the Le Point magazine which named him "vintner of the century".

On November 12th my favorite wine consultant Eric Dahler will introduce four of the Chateau's wines - the flagship Cuvee Mogador 2005 (only 3000 bottles produced), the white 2006 vin de Pays, the Jeunes Vignes 2005 red ( young vines), and the Chateau d'Estoublon red 2005.

All of this, with Pierre's food matched to these unique wines to be tasted for the first time in Japan. Gentle Reader, this is a consumption devoutly to be wished (apologies to the Bard) and I encourage you all to e-mail Eric to pick up a seat. Who knows, you may even see me there!

Contact Eric: Eric@ericswinehometasting.com ; order@japanwp.com; t: 047-493-9401; f: 047-493-9402.

a la Provencale: Coucagno

With a new edition of the Michelin Guide set to cause some more waves in Tokyo's dining landscape, I felt it was time to remedy the fact that I hadn't written up Coucgano on the top of Shibuya's Cerulean Hotel. The 1-star kitchen focuses on Provencale cuisine (although they need to work with the wait-staff who didn't know what pistou was), and the location and atmosphere are - in a word - fantastic.

I visited with a first-time acquaintance and both of us were looking for a lighter meal than any of the three set menus promised (Chef's Special [7 courses] @ Y15,000, Degustation [8 courses] @ Y18,000, and Prix Fixe [4 courses] @ Y10,000. The Gentleman chose a Salade Nicoise followed by Market-fresh grilled Fish of the Day. The fish was described as itoyori, formally itoyoridai, which has the exotic English name of Golden Threadfin Bream. Classicists among you recognize it as the Latin Nemipterus virgatus.

I felt impelled to follow the brave salad lead of The Gentleman with the Simple Seasonal Salad, but could not resist Chef's brave Low Temperature Iberico Pork with Pigs Trotters Accent. Oh my very word! As a trotter fan from many a year ago, this dish sent me into trills of delight. In this day of environmental fervour, Your Humble Correspondent is an earnest proponent of using all parts of the pig and indeed make a point to do so in my daily life. I urge the same course of action for you, Gentle Reader.

The Gentleman has, unfortunately, taken the pledge and so I was "forced" to enjoy the excellent selection of wines by the glass and indulged in a 2003 Chablis. Whoosh!

This is a restaurant that obviously deserves its single star. Service was attentive, food well crafted, the table high in the sky memorable. Two stars, however, will require much closer supervision of the wait staff and more choreography in the performance of the front-of-house. But do get along, preferably with a friend or lover, when you have a hankering for Provence. In fact, call me.

Coucgano [Cerulean Hotel]: t: 03-5492-5817
Rating: Food: 8; Wine: 7; Service: 7; Ambiance: 9 Price: 8 ($$$). Total 39/50

No num-nums at Burdigala!

I must confess, Gentle Reader, to an almost childish delight in the humour of the Goons and in particular the special style of silliness that was Peter Sellers. In one famous outing, he plays an Indian actor who repeats the phrase "birdie num-nums" a number of highly inappropriate times in the movie "The Party". Apropos of nothing really, except it always came to mind when I saw Burdigala in Roppongi Hills. And gave rise to a giggle ... so I couldn't go there for fear of embarrassing myself!

I have no doubt, Gentle Reader, that you know that Burdigala is actually the Roman (Latin) name for the city of Bordeau in the Aquitaine region of Gaul or modern-day France. It was originally named by the Celtic Bituriges Vivisci tribe who settled the area in about 300 B.C. So it's a splendid and honorable name for a restaurant, and shouldn't give rise to mirth at all ... if not for that rascal Sellers.

With The Expat heading back to the United States for some undeserved vacation time, we decided to try Burdigala literally as we walked by. What a happy accident! From the honest and cheerful welcome we got on arrival through to the happy and restrained farewell on leaving, Burdigala makes sure the dining experience is thoroughly pleasant. This is a welcome change from many other places in Roppongi-Azabu, where one sometimes is an unwanted distraction rather than a guest.

The Menu Degustation came as a welcome relief - Burdigala has a wide-ranging menu and we were finding it somewhat difficult to make up our minds. It also offers excellent wines by glass at reasonable prices. We opted for a glass each of the 2005 Domaine Jean Claude Courtault Chablis, an excellent choice for the two hors d'oeuvres of Sea Bream Tartar au Vermouth and warmed Pate de Canard. The tight construction of this wine means it doesn't dominate food ... and the vermouth seemed to bring the flavours together into a neat package. Nice touch, Chef!

As we pressed on towards the fish and meat dishes, The Expat demanded red wine and I had little choice but to go for the big artillery. I ordered the 2004 Gevrey-Chambertin Geantet-Pansiot. Gevrey-Chambertin is often called the "King of Burgundy" and is one of the finest examples of the surprising intensity that Pinot Noir can achieve. Given that it was Napolean's favorite wine, it was likely to suit our little emperor as well.

The fish - isaki, much less attractive in English as Striped Grunter! - was whimsically served in a bouillabaisse broth. This was a well turned-out variation, deeply redolent of the traditional Provencal treatment and delightfully full of flavour.

Your Humble Correspondent has seen a bit of beef in his day, but few as delicious as the Wagyu and Fois Gras with Summer Truffle Sauce that Burdigala now presented. With the Chambertin, this created a taste sensation that was stunning. Ah le beau Burdigala ... your Celtic forebears would be proud of you!

Visit Burdigala with friends and visiting relatives you wish to impress. It's not quite Bordeau, but it's as close as you'll get in Tokyo. Look for the fat boy in the corner, and raise a glass to me!

Burdigala [Map]: Roppongi Hills Keyakizaka-dori, Roppongi 6-15-1; t: 03-5786-7708
Rating: Food: 8; Wine: 8; Service: 7; Ambiance: 7; Price: 7 ($$). Total 37/50
*** Interesting aside: Years and years ago (1,200 to be precise), the village of Gevrey followed the example of many of its counterparts throughout the Cote d'Or and took the name of its most famous vineyard - "Les Champs de Bertin" (the fields of Bertin). That was shortened - no doubt by thirsty drinkers - to Chambertin. The vineyards were eventually gifted to the Abbey de Beze.

Cut to the Chase ... La Chasse

I imagine, Gentle Reader, that you have by now come across the remarkable Dean & DeLuca franchise here in Tokyo in one or more of its manifestations. A splendid addition to the cause, and bouquets to the brave souls who started this phenomenon 5 years ago off the back off a successful apparel business in the catalog channel. Time to slap oneself around the ears for not coming up with the idea personally, particularly once one hears the entry price was only a pitiful $1 million.

I am party to some of the secrets of D&D, but I had often wondered who was the genius behind some of the food. I beg to report, Gentle Reader, that you'll find him in the kitchen at La Chasse [Map] in Roppongi's 3-Chome. Chef, who trained in Japan before working at the 1-star L'Esplanade in France, opened this gem (eclectic, but a gem) of a restaurant almost 2 years ago.

La Chasse is French for the hunt, so it comes as no surprise that the menu here features plenty of game - with the added je ne sais quoi that, often, Chef has actually been the one doing the hunting. Check out his blog on the website, and you'll find a rich tapestry of stories that trace the tale of his romance with food.

We feasted on the Assortment of Appetizers including an extra serving of the stunning Duck and Foie Gras Pate, and fell with delight into the Suckling Boar as our main course. I will update this post with the details of our meal once I'm safely back in Japan, but your Humble Correspondent recommends you gather together all of the appropriate accroutrements and ride off to La Chasse in the very near future. This is good cooking set in a very traditional philosophy of seasonality and the bounty of nature, and an excellent addition to the Tokyo dining scene.

I was partnered in this glorious little journey into the French forests by Sir James - an elegant summary of our experience would be his final words as we left La Chasse: "I'll be back". So will I, Gentle Reader, and I hope you'll take the time to nod at the fat bearded groupie in the corner. I'll be touched ...


La Chasse [Map]: Roppongi 3-5-7 1F; Tel: 03-3505-6144
Rating: Food: 8; Wine: 7; Service: 8; Ambience: 8; Price: 7 ($$). Total 38/50