Food without memory is just digestion

Thursday, 19 June 2008

Cut to the Chase ... La Chasse

I imagine, Gentle Reader, that you have by now come across the remarkable Dean & DeLuca franchise here in Tokyo in one or more of its manifestations. A splendid addition to the cause, and bouquets to the brave souls who started this phenomenon 5 years ago off the back off a successful apparel business in the catalog channel. Time to slap oneself around the ears for not coming up with the idea personally, particularly once one hears the entry price was only a pitiful $1 million.

I am party to some of the secrets of D&D, but I had often wondered who was the genius behind some of the food. I beg to report, Gentle Reader, that you'll find him in the kitchen at La Chasse [Map] in Roppongi's 3-Chome. Chef, who trained in Japan before working at the 1-star L'Esplanade in France, opened this gem (eclectic, but a gem) of a restaurant almost 2 years ago.

La Chasse is French for the hunt, so it comes as no surprise that the menu here features plenty of game - with the added je ne sais quoi that, often, Chef has actually been the one doing the hunting. Check out his blog on the website, and you'll find a rich tapestry of stories that trace the tale of his romance with food.

We feasted on the Assortment of Appetizers including an extra serving of the stunning Duck and Foie Gras Pate, and fell with delight into the Suckling Boar as our main course. I will update this post with the details of our meal once I'm safely back in Japan, but your Humble Correspondent recommends you gather together all of the appropriate accroutrements and ride off to La Chasse in the very near future. This is good cooking set in a very traditional philosophy of seasonality and the bounty of nature, and an excellent addition to the Tokyo dining scene.

I was partnered in this glorious little journey into the French forests by Sir James - an elegant summary of our experience would be his final words as we left La Chasse: "I'll be back". So will I, Gentle Reader, and I hope you'll take the time to nod at the fat bearded groupie in the corner. I'll be touched ...

La Chasse [Map]: Roppongi 3-5-7 1F; Tel: 03-3505-6144
Rating: Food: 8; Wine: 7; Service: 8; Ambience: 8; Price: 7 ($$). Total 38/50

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