Rinkaso - A haven amid the havoc

If, like Your Humble Correspondent, you wake on Saturday mornings paralyzed with indecision about where you should go for lunch, be anxious no more. Nothing else is as soul-destroying and cause for consternation as to be void of a sensible choice of restaurant. One fears that the question at the Pearly Gates will be about restaurant recommendations.

The Once and Future Blonde and YHC often hanker for a Chinese lunch on weekends. So we were delighted to learn contemporary Shanghai has come to Tokyo (via Yokohama Chinatown) with drums beating and banners flying in the shape of Rinkaso courtesy of the Jogen Group.

Jogenro is one of the oldest Shanghai restaurants in Japan. It has been managed by three generations of Fong and Jin women from the day it opened in 1955 and embodies the spirit of the 1920's 'Old Shanghai' reflecting the French Concession aesthetic - extravagant, flamboyant, exciting. It is also, more importantly, frightfully delicious. So who, Gentle Reader, would be better to take a dull and tired Chinese restaurant (New Hokkai-En) halfway between Roppongi and the Tokyo American Club and turn it into a venue worthy of your attention?

The dilemma with most outlets in the Roppongi - TAC axis is that they mostly produce pap. Pale imitations of good ideas. Wouldn't know a flavor beyond "stale oil" even if it charged across the pavement and bit them on the bum. Exceptions exist, for sure. But these are rare or gut-grippingly expensive. Unfortunately, many customers loitering in Roppongi look for price-performance (i.e. cheap) or stomach fillers (i.e. soaking up the drinks).

Not so Rinkaso. This is a castle built on flavor. An edifice to spices. One that very likely bows to Japanese tastes but seems to host many ethnic Chinese as well. They use the whimsical title "Urban Chinese", as if this helped differentiate from other Chinese cuisines. But it feels authentic, original, and creative ... at least to this gweilo (鬼佬).

Dancing solo one warm Saturday morning, Rinkaso somehow emerged from the mist while one suffered through a confused mental conversation about TAC, Va Tout, or Hobgoblin. It was, Gentle Reader, an epiphany, a "mission from God", an Avalon moment.

The food was sharp, clean, focused ... a counterpoint and pleasure compared to most neighborhood chukas. The course menu of 6 items was a journey rather than a trek. While it may not reach the level of a Michelin star, the stark contrast to other options in the area is in itself worthy of a visit. Go en famille, or solo.

Pip Pip!

Rinkaso: 5-18-2 Roppongi, Minato Ward  t: 03-6277-8353

Rating: Food: 8/10; Urbanity: 7/10; Service: 7/10; Ambiance: 8/10; Price-Performance: 7/10

Total: 37/50 (3 Forks)