How is it, Gentle Reader, that a classic little cozy French bistro - self-described as petit restaurant - can hide its pretty face in Ebisu for more than ten years without Your Humble Correspondent darkening its doors? Is this some form of évitement? Has one's reputation sunk so far as to be excluded from culinary exploration with other kuishimbo? Oh, the shame! While YHC's emotional recovery may take some time, a recent visit with Dear James was both enjoyable and instructive.
Epi features time-honored bistro dishes from different regions of France - can you say "comfort food" Gentle Reader? - with generous servings and classic gusto. Chef seems to have quite a thing for mussels both moules and Japonaise. with seven different variations on the menu. What-ho! Cracking stuff with sufficient baguette to mop and sop that brings warmth to both the heart and the belly.
Think bouillabaisse, ratatouille, escargot, pate de campagne, confit ... redolent more of a tabac than a restaurant but with stick-to-the-ribs charm and poise. The menu is only in French and Japanese. This postage stamp of a restaurant is almost subversively, possibly aggressively, the illustration one sees when you look up "bistro" in any reputable dictionary. The cooking is good to excellent, although there is a feeling more of a traiteur than an atelier in the finish and presentation. The Family and YHC enjoyed a very similar meal many years ago in Saumur, before grandchildren.
The wine list at Epi is almost exclusively French, organized by appellation and with good breadth of price points. There is certainly value to be had: and there is a sense of adventure and novelty difficult to find more at celebrated destinations. At the same time, the numerous empty bottles of famous labels set a tone and an expectation that cannot be met by Your Humble Correspondent's wizened wallet, although one can always look lovingly in the direction of these formidable soldiers while sipping something less eminent.
One feels a certain sense of detachment, though, in the service at Epi. There is a fawning weight of expectancy of detailed knowledge focused toward the clientele - which may be appropriate towards regular joren but not for newbies like YHC. One prefers to be teased, drawn in, titillated rather than quizzed. Perhaps one of those slightly bombastic, sniffy and mustachioed French types with the black folded-over apron might suit.
Do toddle along and try Epi dear Reader. Look for friends and lovers that might accompany you. Set yourself a mission to become a regular. It's worth it. And if you open an expensive bottle, save a glass for me. I'm disguised as a gargoyle on the outside deck.
Think bouillabaisse, ratatouille, escargot, pate de campagne, confit ... redolent more of a tabac than a restaurant but with stick-to-the-ribs charm and poise. The menu is only in French and Japanese. This postage stamp of a restaurant is almost subversively, possibly aggressively, the illustration one sees when you look up "bistro" in any reputable dictionary. The cooking is good to excellent, although there is a feeling more of a traiteur than an atelier in the finish and presentation. The Family and YHC enjoyed a very similar meal many years ago in Saumur, before grandchildren.
The wine list at Epi is almost exclusively French, organized by appellation and with good breadth of price points. There is certainly value to be had: and there is a sense of adventure and novelty difficult to find more at celebrated destinations. At the same time, the numerous empty bottles of famous labels set a tone and an expectation that cannot be met by Your Humble Correspondent's wizened wallet, although one can always look lovingly in the direction of these formidable soldiers while sipping something less eminent.
One feels a certain sense of detachment, though, in the service at Epi. There is a fawning weight of expectancy of detailed knowledge focused toward the clientele - which may be appropriate towards regular joren but not for newbies like YHC. One prefers to be teased, drawn in, titillated rather than quizzed. Perhaps one of those slightly bombastic, sniffy and mustachioed French types with the black folded-over apron might suit.
Do toddle along and try Epi dear Reader. Look for friends and lovers that might accompany you. Set yourself a mission to become a regular. It's worth it. And if you open an expensive bottle, save a glass for me. I'm disguised as a gargoyle on the outside deck.
Pip Pip!
Epi: 2-10-6 Nishi-Ebisu, Shibuya Ward t: 03-3780-8687
Rating: Food: 7/10; Epi-cness: 7/10; Service: 6/10; Ambiance: 8/10; Price-Performance: 7/10
Total: 35/50 (3 Forks)
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