Food without memory is just digestion

Saturday 20 July 2019

Mari e Monte - Now we're talking!

There was a time, Gentle Reader, when Your Humble Correspondent would not darken the doors of this establishment. It was during the reign of the previous proprietor, after a ramen and pasta collaboration debacle. These sort of abominations are what caused the downfall of the Roman Empire, as they couldn't hear the footfall of the approaching barbarians over the screams and howls of disgruntled plebeians. A knock at the door, opened to a slothering Hun, and then rapacious slaughter.

Better times now, and a very pleasant trattoria graces inner Tokyo once again. So it was, then, that Your Humble Correspondent ventured there with The Once and Future Blonde (a known bevitrice) and two long-time fellow noshers: the dear gentleman had recently taken a position with an Italian brand and a celebration seemed entirely in order.

Mari e Monti offers dishes from all over Italy, despite its proprietors hailing from Puglia. Many crowd favorites for sure - all well-executed - and they exhibit a pleasant willingness to tweak. It almost feels like an Italian take on (delicious) comfort food. Ego is set aside, and there is a very pleasing focus on technique and presentation.

One hesitates to criticize, but some adventure and innovation - which will surely come - might be welcome. Service is fast and pleasant, and there are satisfyingly pleasant breaks between courses that encourage dialogue and copious consumption of bevande

The wine list here is resolutely Italian, with some brave selections and many famous DOC and DOCG represented. There are bottles priced for ostentatious consumption by the lords of the financial universe, and others more suited to the pockets of the impecunious. Such as Your Humble Correspondent ...

Limoncello has become a mandatory end to dinners in Tokyo, and Cossimo makes gallons of it out the back. And then brings it to the front. Over-indulgence, Gentle Reader, is a requirement.

Mari e Monti is a place to enjoy time with friends, and the conviviality of Cossimo and Luca as Mine Hosts. It is unfailingly cheerful and always entertaining. Make it your go-to Italian. And invite me ...

Mari e Monti: Nishi-Azabu 4-1-10, Conforia Bldg Nishi-Azabu, 2F t: 03-6418-707 [Closed Sundays]
RatingFood: 8/10; Mario-less-ness: 8/10; Service: 8/10; Ambiance:7/10; Price-Performance: 8/10
Total: 39/50 (3 Forks)

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