Food without memory is just digestion

Thursday, 18 July 2019

Effe - Terratoria!


It has been some time, Gentle Reader, since your Humble Correspondent had much to say of any value. Not surprising really. But recently, opportunities to visit interesting establishments have arisen with a change in digs and it would be amiss not to share these. It seems the very least one could do. Churlish to do otherwise really.
It is an appealing yet inevitable aspect of life in Japan that our hosts conflate words and meanings from other languages to fit particular purposes. Think barcode-jin (bad combover), doctor-stop (told by your doctor to stop drinking), and back-chan (pretty but only from behind).
Such is the case at Effe, snuggled close by Keio in Mita. In terms of cuisine, it aspires to and achieves the rank of ‘trattoria’ [interestingly, from trattore "host, keeper of an eating house]: trattorias are traditionally family owned, casual, neighbourhood restaurants that serve fresh, unassuming, and reasonably conventional food.
In terms of ingredient sourcing, it strives to be as natural and organic as possible. Worthy, and laudable. It is redolent of and resonant with “la terra”, so to speak.
Put “terra” and “trattoria” together and you get “terratorria”. Apparently. At least your Humble Correspondent is convinced...
The food here is neither rustic nor routine. Each course was carefully thought out, brilliantly prepared, and wonderfully presented. Service in Japanese or English is fast and friendly, and given the “terra” bit provenance is properly explained. The wine list shows the wan contemporary incline to natural wines, but does have some worthy exceptions to the general rule (If a wine needs to be labeled as natural to sell, it won’t).
Effe is a place to be enjoyed with friends and fellow conspirators. Tables are a little close, but tolerable. Be warned, Gentle Reader, that it is unfortunately popular and reservations can be hard to obtain. But faint heart never won fair lady, so do persevere.
And the grassone in the corner? Don’t mind me, I’m trying to blend in.
Pip Pip!

Effe: 3 Chome-3-3-5 Mita, Minato, 03-6809-6103
Rating: Food: 8/10; Terra-ness: 8/10; Service: 8/10; Ambiance:7/10; Price-Performance: 7/10
Total: 38/50 (3 Forks)
Reservations: ikyu.com, gnavi.co.jp, resebook.jp


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