Mari e Monte - Now we're talking!

There was a time, Gentle Reader, when Your Humble Correspondent would not darken the doors of this establishment. It was during the reign of the previous proprietor, after a ramen and pasta collaboration debacle. These sort of abominations are what caused the downfall of the Roman Empire, as they couldn't hear the footfall of the approaching barbarians over the screams and howls of disgruntled plebeians. A knock at the door, opened to a slothering Hun, and then rapacious slaughter.

Better times now, and a very pleasant trattoria graces inner Tokyo once again. So it was, then, that Your Humble Correspondent ventured there with The Once and Future Blonde (a known bevitrice) and two long-time fellow noshers: the dear gentleman had recently taken a position with an Italian brand and a celebration seemed entirely in order.

Mari e Monti offers dishes from all over Italy, despite its proprietors hailing from Puglia. Many crowd favorites for sure - all well-executed - and they exhibit a pleasant willingness to tweak. It almost feels like an Italian take on (delicious) comfort food. Ego is set aside, and there is a very pleasing focus on technique and presentation.

One hesitates to criticize, but some adventure and innovation - which will surely come - might be welcome. Service is fast and pleasant, and there are satisfyingly pleasant breaks between courses that encourage dialogue and copious consumption of bevande. 

The wine list here is resolutely Italian, with some brave selections and many famous DOC and DOCG represented. There are bottles priced for ostentatious consumption by the lords of the financial universe, and others more suited to the pockets of the impecunious. Such as Your Humble Correspondent ...

Limoncello has become a mandatory end to dinners in Tokyo, and Cossimo makes gallons of it out the back. And then brings it to the front. Over-indulgence, Gentle Reader, is a requirement.

Mari e Monti is a place to enjoy time with friends, and the conviviality of Cossimo and Luca as Mine Hosts. It is unfailingly cheerful and always entertaining. Make it your go-to Italian. And invite me ...

Mari e Monti: Nishi-Azabu 4-1-10, Conforia Bldg Nishi-Azabu, 2F t: 03-6418-707 [Closed Sundays]

Rating: Food: 8/10; Mario-less-ness: 8/10; Service: 8/10; Ambiance:7/10; Price-Performance: 8/10

Total: 39/50 (3 Forks)

Reservations: https://www.mariemonti.jp/reservation

Aile Blanche - Oow La la!

There are times, Gentle Reader, when one wonders whether the life of a roving vagabond is the best option one might adopt. Throwing caution to the winds, looking for serendipity rather than stability, and letting the Universe roll its dice with vibrant abandon. The best nostrum for these epigrammatic moments is a good French meal.

So it was that Your Humble Correspondent headed to Aile Blanche with The Once and Future Blonde and The Professor. The decor is rather stark, as if Mine Host was forcing one to focus only on the food. While the goal is to evoke a quiet room in the 16th Arrondissement with a view to the Eiffel Tower, it feels more like a passe gentile fin de siecle apartment where the disgraced Tante Eloise made her abode.

The food, on the other hand, is spectacular.

The specialty is foie gras, straight from the farm of Mr. Jean Daniel Castaing in Saint-Sever, Nouvelle Acquitaine. The legend of this 90-something year old company is that each duck is fed corn from the hand of the proprietor, one by one. M. Castaing must get very little sleep, and have palms of steel. But the foie gras is something very special indeed.

One chooses, Gentle Reader, from one of four set "courses" ranging from Y8,000 to Y20,000. Each of course includes the foie Gras. Your Humble Correspondent went low in this case, as is his wont. Conspicuous consumption is so tacky, isn't it? Better a light purse than light ambition, don't you think?

The entree of fish was delicately put together, despite the slightly charred skin on the underside, and swam in a fragrant butter sauce that showed mastery. The light chilled soup was magnificent, exhibiting a subtle balance of flavors that didn't suffer from a lower temperature and which exploded in the mouth. The dessert was less memorable, but that was likely an effect of wine rather than whine.

Chef Ogawa brings his pernickety and fastidious approach to the wine selection as well - the wine is kept a constant temperature during transport, and then stored at an agreeable temperature at a constant humidity of 70% scented and deodorized by bamboo charcoal. The selection is elegant and well considered, and a matching flight is available.

Service at Aile Blanche is attentive and cheerful, once they get over their fear of English. This venue is probably best enjoyed with choosier and generous friends, although it would also suit for a celebration of a romantic nature.

And don't mind the odd-looking garcon flittering about ... I actually bring most dishes to the table.

Pip Pip!

Aile Blanche: Patio Azabu Juban, 2-8-10 Azabu Juban, Minato; t: 03-5439-4338

Rating: Food: 8/10; 16th-ness: 7/10; Service: 8/10; Ambiance:7/10; Price-Performance: 7/10

Total: 37/50 (3 Forks)

Reservations: www.tablecheck.com/ja/shops/aileblanche/reserve

Effe - Terratoria!

It has been some time, Gentle Reader, since your Humble Correspondent had much to say of any value. Not surprising really. But recently, opportunities to visit interesting establishments have arisen with a change in digs and it would be amiss not to share these. It seems the very least one could do. Churlish to do otherwise really.

It is an appealing yet inevitable aspect of life in Japan that our hosts conflate words and meanings from other languages to fit particular purposes. Think barcode-jin (bad combover), doctor-stop (told by your doctor to stop drinking), and back-chan (pretty but only from behind).

Such is the case at Effe, snuggled close by Keio in Mita. In terms of cuisine, it aspires to and achieves the rank of ‘trattoria’ [interestingly, from trattore "host, keeper of an eating house]: trattorias are traditionally family owned, casual, neighbourhood restaurants that serve fresh, unassuming, and reasonably conventional food.

In terms of ingredient sourcing, it strives to be as natural and organic as possible. Worthy, and laudable. It is redolent of and resonant with “la terra”, so to speak.

Put “terra” and “trattoria” together and you get “terratorria”. Apparently. At least your Humble Correspondent is convinced...

The food here is neither rustic nor routine. Each course was carefully thought out, brilliantly prepared, and wonderfully presented. Service in Japanese or English is fast and friendly, and given the “terra” bit provenance is properly explained. The wine list shows the wan contemporary incline to natural wines, but does have some worthy exceptions to the general rule (If a wine needs to be labeled as natural to sell, it won’t).

Effe is a place to be enjoyed with friends and fellow conspirators. Tables are a little close, but tolerable. Be warned, Gentle Reader, that it is unfortunately popular and reservations can be hard to obtain. But faint heart never won fair lady, so do persevere.

And the grassone in the corner? Don’t mind me, I’m trying to blend in.

Pip Pip!

Effe: 3 Chome-3-3-5 Mita, Minato, 03-6809-6103
Rating: Food: 8/10; Terra-ness: 8/10; Service: 8/10; Ambiance:7/10; Price-Performance: 7/10
Total: 38/50 (3 Forks)
Reservations: ikyu.com, gnavi.co.jp, resebook.jp