Reglisse - Around the back

Apparently, Gentle Reader, Reglisse means licorice. Your Humble Correspondent is equally as confused as you. The thought is that just like licorice is enjoyed by both children and adults (in France), everyone will be delighted by the range of tastes presented. How fitting! This is a beautiful petite 24 seat French restaurant which describes itself as a Premium Bistro. While these seems somewhat overwrought, it works.

Chef Takeshi Hatano describes his food as traditional french ennobled by his particular flair - the cuisine is unique, stunningly creative, and a boon to endacious sojourners like Your Humble Correspondent. He presents you with menus that resonate and gently echo in the contemporary space, where guests wait for the poetic and tantalizing descriptions provided by the floor team led by Kentaro Toda and Sommelier Kaori Hatano.

Yet this is not a foppishly formal or stiff restaurant. It is a place where you want to spend time with someone important to you. A destination for deliberate dining. A haven in which to be pampered. It just seems to flow, with quiet bonhomie and sleek professionalism. One imagines it might be perfect for a Spring or Autumn assignation, or a stylish and romantic dinner for two.

Happily, the course menus seem to focus on five dishes at both luncheon and dinner. These show both imagination and genius, with exquisite harmony. Even the most ardent trencherman (like, say, Your Humble Correspondent) is asked questions without answers. There are pique moments and comfort moments.

As a bit of an imbiber, YHC was flabbergasted by the wine list. Discombobulated. Confounded. Undone. One rarely finds a list so well balanced in terms of both wallet and weight. Not neon-fancy-festooned with grand labels, but carefully considered and curated. New, Old, rare, and fascinating all combine somehow into a singular whole.

A word about the service - impeccable. One imagines things are made smoother by being able to speak and read Japanese, but faint heart ne'er won fair lady. Sally forth!

Located on the Keyakizaka side of Roppongi Hills on the 3rd floor, it can be difficult to find. Toddle onto the elevator next to the Mini showroom and go to the 3rd Floor. Still lost? Find La Brianza and look for the terrace at the back to your right, past Saryo Miyazaka and just before Sushi Sukibayashi Jiro. You deserve a medal ...

Reglisse is a place to visit with close friends and lovers, in small numbers. And that wisp in the wine cellar? Pass by quickly without comment - I'm working.

Pip Pip!

Reglisse: 3F, 6-12-2 Roppongi, Minato Ward  t: 03-6804-3306

Pera: Y5,000 ~ (your call on the wine)

Rating: Food: 8/10; Terrace-ness: 7/10; Service: 8/10; Ambiance: 8/10; Price-Performance: 8/10

Total: 39/50 (3 Forks)