Brin de Muguet - Veni, Vidi, Epuli

Among the coterie that makes up my nearest and dearest, Gentle Reader, Cost Center #3 has always been a little fey. Nice girl and all, but a little fey. Fey enough to have discovered a love for ancient Greek and Latin well towards the end of a degree in Economics. Fey enough to imagine that others are interested in feminine declensions in the votive etc etc. Fey enough, indeed, to actually want to visit 108 temples during a recent Grand Tour of the Ancient World.

Which came to mind - somewhat haphazardly I'll admit - when the Child Bride and your Humble Correspondent travelled to Ogikubo recently for a wine tasting hosted by the genial Eric Dahler at Brin de Muguet. Ogikubo is quite a journey from the more civilized areas your Humble Correspondent typically haunts, and the good man we engaged to deliver us to the restaurant confessed little more than a passing knowledge of the area apart from the railway station. Truth to tell, I felt a little like Julius Caesar conquering the Gauls. Or Hannibal crossing the Alps, although our mode of transport only resembled an elephant in the same way that a banana resembles an Airbus.

Brin de Muguet has been adding a different face to Ogikubo for more than 10 years as the first of Richard Rodot's culinary enterprises in Japan, joined later by four branches of Le Jardin de Gaulois. One senses the revenge of Asterix in all of this, but with successful establishments in the Shin-Maru Building and Printemps in Ginza there can be little doubt that Richard has hit on a successful model.

There is little of the rustic about the menu - on our visit, YHC and the Child Bride particularly enjoyed the Mousse de carotte et son consomme de homard en gelee, a delicate Gratin de fruit de mer a la creme safranee, and a very well-prepared Daube de boeuf au vin rouge au parfum d'orange. Considering Chef was cooking for around 20, the kitchen did a fine job.

Eric's wine, as ever, were a highlight of the evening. I was impressed with the 2006 Pessac-Leognan and the 2005 Margaux Chateau d'Arsac. At Eric's mostly reasonable prices, you can do little harm, Gentle Reader, by ordering these for your next dinner party or soiree.

Were one ever to consider crossing the Yamanote barrier again, Brin de Muguet would be high on my list of potential destinations. This is a good restaurant with a professional floor crew matched by a very competent kitchen team and I suspect - given a little encouragement - the menu de jour could be well worth exploring. There seems a sense of play and experimentation, or perhaps confidence, that is missing in most surburban French establishment in Tokyo. I should not be surprised if it might rise to 4 forks.

Brin de Muguet is a restaurant to enjoy with friends and lovers. And should you visit, please consider a small donation to the Cost Center #3 Relief Fund whereby we shall do our very best to rescue said fey Child from the fairies. Or at least buy a bottle of La Grande Dame to enjoy with The Child Bride, and toast eccentricity!

Brin de Muguet: 5-14-4 Ogikubo, Suginami Ward. t: 03-3220-5448
Rating: Food: 7/10; Gallic-ness: 7/10; Service: 7/10; Ambiance: 8/10; Price ($$): 8/10. Total: 37/50

Obika - Bravo Signor Ursini!

One does not often find, Gentle Reader, a happy fusion when meeting a western food tradition built around a neo-Japanese concept. On the contrary, one generally finds con-fusion... as evidenced by such abominations like California Roll sushi or Teriyaki Chicken pizza. On the other hand, your Humble Correspondent is the first to admit that Tokyo may well be the weird "capital" of the world.

Enter Obika, snuggled into the unfashionable side of Roppongi Hills and being the Nipponica variant of the global phenomenon of Grupa Obika. This contagious (epidemic?) outbreak of mozzarella eateries is the brainchild of Signor Silvio Ursini of Bulgari fame. An ardent fan of Japan and a dedicated devourer of sushi, he was one day struck by the brilliant thought that it would be a good idea to serve his beloved mozzarella similarly presented with delicacy and wonder. One's mind boggles at just what said S. Ursini was doing at the time this particular thought struck, and how bears are related to buffaloes.

Obika is brought to us by the omnipresent Wondertable restaurant and bar company. With more than 20 establishments (all seemingly with different thematic thrusts), one "wonders" how they remember what to serve every day and how they judge performance and quality. Would that I had the providor contract!

The Roppongi version of Obika is pleasant and airy, well laid out around a service platform and sushi-esque counter that at least pays tribute to S. Ursini's original inspiration. It seems that perhaps Japanese - especially the bevy of young women who were dining at Obika when I visited with the Child Bride - are not perhaps as taken with the romance of sushi as the Italian gentleman because they overwhelmingly preferred the stylish cafe tables to the counter.

Now I need to warn you, Gentle Reader, to be prepared to be Office-Lady'ed to death when you visit Obika. During my visit, the entire male population of the restaurant would not have filled a five-urinal rest room, and the air was rent with giggles, Waa-ahs, and sugoi's. The tables have clever hooks designed to hold Gucci or Bulgari handbags and to auto-eject anything from a French brand (actually, that's not true). There are plenty of mirrors, and a broad selection of desserts which strangely do not feature mozzarella. Wine seems more decorative than consumed, perhaps a pity given the Napoli background of S Ursini.

In short, exactly right for Roppongi Hills which is perhaps a 21st century Japanese version of a vestal virgin House or a medieval nunnery... which would explain the prevelance of Ophelia-like long dark tresses and pale complexions.

All of that said, Obika is well worth a brief dalliance. It is significantly better than the other food outlets in Roppongi Hills, with the exception of Joel's Atelier. The food is well prepared, and the Ricotta and Spinach ravioli I enjoyed was a real stand-out. Of course, the mozzarella tasting dish (3 varieties from sweet to smoky to firm) also deserves your attention and the salads are both elegant and green. A daily pasta dish adds variety to an otherwise mundane menu.

The Obika site also has an online reservations function for the technologically gifted, and an offline telephone reservations function for the vocally gifted.

And should you spy a little round man being a little too metriculous with the Balsamic and the double-virgin olive oil, do please offer to pay the chit. It would help me meet the monthly payments on the handbags.

Obika: 6-10-2 Roppongi, Roppongi Hills (Keyakizaka-side) B1F t: 03-5786-6400
Rating: Food: 7/10; Girly-ness: 7/10; Service: 7/10; Ambiance: 6/10; Price ($$): 8/10. Total: 35/50

Leeuwin Estate Concert - What an experience!

Before the wretched Jon gets to be able to post on his upcoming visit to El Bulli (Wikipedia; Restaurant), I am sure you'll agree with me, Gentle Reader, that it is entirely seemly that your Humble Correspondent should report on his recent expedition to the Leeuwin Estate Concert.

The Child Bride and I have oft been invited to this spectacular in the rolling hills of the wine country of Margaret River - but sadly, have never before been able to take up the opportunity. So, suddenly alone together with the Princess departed off to university, we threw caution to the winds and sallied forth per Singapore Airlines (Oh, may their name be praised!) to Perth via the Island-City.

Your Humble Correspondent has often regaled audiences with the story of Leeuwin's founding (see the sanitized version here) at the urging (and scratching, but that's another story!) of Robert Moldavi. All very jolly, but there was always an aching pain / pang in our conjugal hearts that we had not hobnobbed with the creme de la creme at the Concert.

Gentle Reader, this is something you simply have to do. The Concert takes place in an extraordinary natural amphitheatre, set among the gums and gardens of one of Australia's premier destinations. Chris Isaak was a wonderful performer, although a little too pink for your Humble Correspondent's taste. The stars burned brightly under the Great Southern skies, and the picnic basket provided by Leeuwin was gnawsome and fitting both to the setting and its guests.

Prepare to salivate:

Estate made chicken liver pate

Baguette

Estate made pork and duck terrine

Organic wafers

Pear paste

Wild olives

Black pig prosciutto

Chicken galantine, sage & apricot stuffing

Yarra Valley smoked salmon

Honey cured leg ham

Estate made chutney

Fresh salad, Vinaigrette

Maffra cloth wrapped cheddar

Pear and frangipani tart

washed down of course with premier Leeuwin Estate Art Series wines (Your Humble Correspondent prised an extra bottle of the awesome Riesling out of the Estate!). The Child Bride even got to wiggle (she terms it 'dancing') with some friends. What a marvelous event, and a highlight of life on the gourmet front lines braved on your behalf by your Humble Correspondent).

Special thanks to Dennis and Helen for the invite, and the Hills clan extended for their company.

Top that, Jon!

Delizioso Italia - bene, bene!

I venture, Gentle Reader, to suggest that Ebisu has a strangely Italian feel to it. Not the station area, of course, which is frenetically and savagely commuter-esque. But in the narrow side streets one feels a patina of casual enjoyment and genuine social interaction that reminds one of a piazza rather than a chome.

And so it is with Delizioso Italia. Feeling a little like a lordling on The Grand Tour, your Humble Correspondent dragged his portly frame to Ebisu 4-Chome to enjoy a meal with The Guru. As a historical aside, the sumptuous Biftek so much a part of contemporary Florentine cuisine was actually developed in Florence to accomodate these 17th and 18th Century English tourists who would spend one or two months among the Italo-English priviliged classes of Florence before heading on to Rome and points beyond. They needed beef, and lots of it.

This little trattoria had been recommended by Nick, of Wall Street fame, and I thought to humor him by taking a colleague there rather than someone important. Dear me! How fey of me ... how dismissive; how very, very poor form! Abject apologies and copious beers for Nick on our next assignation!

This is a splendid establishment with a bustling sense of busyness tending to mild panic that thrills the gastronome and invites exploration. Many of the guests are couples, deep in conversation with one another instead of the audience, and seriously trying to enjoy the evening. The restaurant "buzzes", with a sense of pleasure and an electricity that gradually draws you under its spell.

The Guru and I enjoyed three dishes each (yes, thus "portly"), all prepared with vigor and passion by a potentially superior chef, and delivered to table by an engaged and informed floor team. TG's Antipasto Mista might have fed a small barbarian horde, and my salad showed an excellent balance of texture and taste. The pastas were excellent, and the kitchen listened patiently to my peccadilloes about veal cutlet Limone before delivering a dish way beyond my expectations.

We also enjoyed a lovely bottle of San Gimignano Verdecchio that sang of the Tuscan spring, and some Italian beer that was appropriately chilled and served in small glasses rather than pint buckets [Note: English beers and ales should be drunk in larger glasses, but chilled beer tends to warm too quickly in tankards!].

I recommend taking a friend or lover to Delizioso Italia, or a colleague who understands your eccentricities. And should you see a Grand Tourist in the corner, Gentle Reader, raise a glass to toast the benefits of a classical education and a generous sponsor (yes, he paid!). I shall undoubtedly return the compliment!

Delizioso Italia: 1st Floor Lupinas Bldg, Ebisu 4-27-17, Shibuya Ward. t: 03-3440-5510
Rating: Food: 7/10; Wine: 7/10; Service: 7/10; Ambiance: 7/10; Price ($$): 7/10. Total: 35/50

Sabado Sabadete - Dali-esque Dalliance!

Have you ever hankered, Gentle Reader, after a Spanish fling? An Iberian tryst, robust and energetic, yet never crossing over the chasm to romance? The Knights of the Tokyo Darkside group recently sallied forth to Sabado Sabadete in Shirokanedai for just such an opportunity, and came away both satiated and entertained.

Your Humble Correspondent first visited this unassuming establishment for a tasting of some magnificent Spanish Rioja wine with the effervescent Eric from Wine Prosperite. A grand evening it was, with plenty of good campesino food and a splendid performance by the Chef and Master with drinking beer out of a ceremonial decanter. Said chef, Gentle Reader, models himself on Salvadore Dali and has a penchant for those silly little red hats. But he is a jewellery designer by vocation, so perhaps forgiveness is more virtuous than aspersion.

So back we went with the Darkside, and filled this small restaurant. A good selection of Iberico cold meats and filling salads, along with Catalan meatballs (and achingly good quaffables from dear Eric!). Paella is prepared in a massive dish in the center of the small kitchen, and presented to the assembled multitude - at which point the performance begins. I'm told Sabado Sabadete uses beer and soda water instead of the customary red wine out of deference to its guests' attire, but the raucous hand-clapping and rambunctious challenges make this a quaint yet engaging exercise taking this aging rake back to his university drinking game days.

The point of Sabado Sabadete is its atmosphere and energy, and it is a welcome alternative in the fuss and bother that is European dining in Tokyo. This is a venue that excites with its broad smile and deep bosom of friendship, but is never going to get too committed. In short, Gentle Reader, it is a flirtation best visited on occasion and never with serious intentions.

Take your friends in some numbers rather than anyone you're trying to impress, and leave everything up to M. Dali. It will be light on the wallet and on the mind. And if someone steals into your group when the free beer is passing around in the decanter, you should smile knowingly and toast your Humble Correspondent's complete lack of pride.
Sabado Sabadete: 2nd Floor, Genteel Shirokanedai, 5-3-2 Shirokanedai, Minato Ward. t: 03-3445-9353
Rating: Food: 6/10; Wine: 7/10; Service: 6/10; Ambiance: 8/10; Price: 7/10. Total: 34/50