By Charlie! Epanoui Hiroo

One wonders, Gentle Reader, how people navigate their way through the mesmerizing, myriad selection of great dining opportunities here in Tokyo. How easy it is to just fall back on the old favorites, happy in the knowledge that all will be well and familiar.

It falls on your Humble Correspondent to slave on your behalf to discover the hidden jewels in Tokyo's culinary crown. So it is with great delight that I introduce Epanoui in Hiroo 3-Chome [Map], where I dined with a self-surrendering colleague recently. A true delight, Gentle Reader, with a deft touch in the food, the service, and the atmosphere it has created in this stand-alone house just off Komazawa-dori near Kokugakuin University. Epanoui comes from the French for "to bloom", and is used in the wine industry to describe the sensation when a wine's bouquet "opens" up.

One of the characters-in-residence at Epanoui is Charlie, the Wire Hair and Fox Terrier who serves as Maitre D' with aplomb and quiet reserve. Charlie has his own section in the Japanese-only website, and seems to regard most of we humble diners with a touch of disdain and distance. Chef Shindo Takeshi has plenty of experience both here in Tokyo and in Paris (mainly in the 8e), and uses it with great aplomb at this wonderful suburban restaurant. He and his wife live "above the shop", and they are truly dedicated to l'art de cuisine.

We went for the safe middle ground among the 3 set menus (A: 1 entree, Meat or Fish, Dessert @ Y4,200; B: 2 entrees or 1 entree and Fish, Meat or Fish, Dessert @ Y5,985; C: 1 entree, Fois Gras, Fish of the Day, Meat of the Day, Dessert @ Y7,560).

My colleague ordered first, and so snaffled the Foie gras poêlé à la sauce aux truffes, which I matched with Terrine de canard challandais. Both were delightful, and served as a great introduction to the experience this husband and wife team seek to provide their lucky customers. Our second entree was the Asperges Blanches à la sauce mayonnais, served with an interesting Mascapone and Salmon mousse, that delivered on every promise and provided us both with something to discuss other than mundane work matters.

We both chose the Confit de canard as our main course. Simply brilliant, Gentle Reader, and worth the sometimes frustrating navigational headache that Epanoui can provide (see directions below). The champignon and squeezed duck jus rissole that accompanies it is delightfully light and balanced.

Our wine was a 2004 Chablis, which was complex and elegant without showing that cloying sweetness that can dominate the chardonnay grape. It was excellent with my Basque tart dessert.

I shall be back at Epanoui in very short order, eager to try the other options on this interesting menu. Try Epanoui with only your best friends, or we'll find the 20-odd seats will fill way too quickly!

Epanoui [Map], 3-2-14 Hiroo, Shibuya-ku. Tel./Fax 03(3407)1513
Rating: Food: 8/10; Wine: 7/10; Ambiance: 7/10; Service: 7/10; Price ($$): 8/10. Total: 37/50 Add a bonus point for Charlie!

Directions: Have your driver head along Komazawa-dori from Shibuya-bashi towards Roppongi, and look for the 7-Eleven conbini after the second traffic light. Get out and cross the road, turn left and look for the first lane way on your right side. Turn into the lane, and Epanoui is the 2-storey house in front of you as the lane turns again to the right.

Ah, a play's the thing! Cafe Eight.

Ever the urbane sophisticate, Gentle Reader, I was delighted to be invited by Ashley Associates to the recent Tokyo performance of the Bard's Hamlet by the International Theatre Company London. Hamlet, performed brilliantly by this talented cast of seven (!), is one of my favorite Shakespeare pieces and never fails to reveal new insights and highlights.

And repairing for a post-performance bite with the troupe and various Ashley associates, the Child Bride and I found ourselves - obviously (after the Danish play?) - at the all-night Chinese restaurant Cafe Eight [Map] located hard by the Grand Hyatt and famous for its Peking Duck.

I must admit, Gentle Reader, that your Humble Correspondent has a h-u-g-e soft spot for Peking Duck [and Jaiozi (dumplings)]. I firmly believe that this duck dish is the third great contribution of Chinese civilization to humanity, after paper money and gunpowder, and have tried it all around the world from Beijing to Hong Kong, Guangzhou to Glenelg.

Cafe Eight could work somewhat on the pancakes to make them a little lighter (or prepare them fresh rather than well in advance!), but the duck itself is among the best I've ever had and the accompanying soup and stir-fry certainly don't wilt in its limelight. At Y3,680 this is a real bargain and I'm deeply grateful to Sir James (that paragon of elegant eating in Tokyo!) for the introduction and the meal.

The rest of the menu is both exciting and comforting, and with dishes and banquet courses to cover every budget, I commend Cafe Eight to you for gatherings that you know will be enthusiastic and effervescent. The side dishes we tried were good-to-great, with a cap doffed especially to the Chinese Greens and Fried Fresh Garlic. The drinks list is fulsome and interesting, although one should expect a predilection to the Orient rather than the Occident. I opted for flavour and familiarity with TsingDao which remains one of my favorite ales despite 30 years of competition from other well-meaning brews.

Cafe Eight has three branches in Tokyo (and one in Ontario apparently), but I am reliably informed that the Roppongi venue is the oldest and best. Visit Cafe Eight with rambunctious friends and tipsy colleagues.

Chinese Cafe Eight [Map], Nishi-Azabu 3-2-13,Court Annex 2F (opposite Grand Hyatt), 5414-5708; Open 24 hours a day.
Rating: Food: 8/10; Beer: 6/10; Ambiance: 6/10; Service: 7/10; Price ($$): 8/10. Total: 35/50

A Secret Love - Le Recamier

There are times, Gentle Reader, when we all look for a calm and reassuring haven as we wend our way through the frenetic Tokyo dining scene. Quiet competence, a sharp focus on fine food, and the calm assurance of a chef who has seen it all.

And Le Recamier [Map] in Moto Azabu is that sort of place. The tableware has that slightly battered feel that one only sees when dining with long-term friends or relatives. Sort of like your grandmother's table. Except she could never cook like this!

Le Recamier is of course a reference to the Grande Dame de la salon of 19th century Imperial France, whose portrait graces the entrance and whose wit and charm seem to effuse this charming little restaurant with an air of grand decadence and enormous charm. There is more than a hint of Chef's personality in this glance back at better days, and I for one salute him for his je ne sais quoi.

My recent visit was not my first - the ineffable James had introduced me to this little gem a couple of years ago, and the Tokyo Darkside once visited as well. I'm pleased to report that Le Recamier has gone from strength to strength, and is thriving just off Terebi-Asahi-dorii in Roppongi/Moto-Azabu (turn down the street before the fire station). Dropping in with a Kiwi friend (now there's an amusing irony!), we were delighted to leave the menu to Chef.

After a quick dash at the pate de Fois Gras, my entree was a superb St Jacques turned off nicely and plated to highlight the coral. This dish is a joy and I recommend it to you, Gentle Reader, should you follow my advice and make Le Recamier a regular stop on your Tokyo dining journey. The white wine, Chassagne Mont 2005 Domaine Jean-Marc Morey, complemented this dish wonderfully well and seemed to evaporate in the glass (although the Kiwi is indeed a thirsty fellow, and a man's not a camel you know).

Yes, I'm not ashamed to admit that I went for the Confit of Duck once more time. The duck is such an ugly animal with a frightful way of expressing itself - but the meat is God's way of making up for these shortfalls. Chef is a dab hand indeed at this canard thing, and didn't disappoint with a darling little wine reduction and a just enough of a hint of vegetables to satisfy my doctor's raucous insistence on fiber. Our Clos St Martin 1996 St Emilion was surprisingly elegant yet fresh, and added to the enjoyment of both the fowl and the Kiwi's subtle Lamb (I swear I'm not making that up!) dish.

A selection of cheeses whetted the appetite for cigars - not here, but at the Grand Hyatt. More on that at a later time! Visit Le Recamier often, with friends and lovers. And raise a glass to the rotundity in the corner - I'll be the fool smirking over a grand pate de fois gras!

Rating: Food: 8/10; Wine: 7/10; Ambiance: 7/10; Service: 8/10; Price ($$): 7/10. Total: 37/50
Le Recamier [Map], 3-2-3 Moto-Azabu, Minato-Ku. 10 minutes walk from Roppongi station. 03-3408-5044

Downtown Delhi ... Spicing it up for 50 Years!

I have to admit, Gentle reader, to more than a strong aversion to overly spiced food - particularly the type one normally encounters in English pubs or Indian chain restaurants here in Tokyo. "Methinks the kitchen doth protest too much!" is my standard response.

So you can imagine my trepidation when I was ordered by the Child Bride to appear at Delhi [Map] to join some long-standing Japanese friends of hers for a real "Indian" dinner. Summoned, and enjoined to "behave", I accompanied her and the Princess there on a recent Sunday evening. The restaurant was packed to the rafters, and the only way we avoided a wait was that our Host has been a twice-a-week regular for more than 30 years in that particularly lovely Japanese style of loyalty.

I further admit to being a huge fan of Kingfisher beer, and so my curiosity was whetted when I saw it prominently featured on the drinks menu. "At least I can get quietly sozzled!", I thought. The host proceeded to order a dizzying array of dishes, and I steeled my wavering nerve and quietened my quivering stomach.

Delhi is a rare exception to White's Law of Spicy Food. From the opening Samoza through the curried cauliflower, the foxtrot through the Tandoori chicken and Lamb Korma, and the plunge into the Tomato salad and the Buttered Chicken - Delhi knows how to prepare great ingredients in a sensitive and subtle way that never threatens the diner but allows him or her to explore new territory.

Don't be mistaken - this is not some swarmy, plush high-end restaurant. Delhi is a matter-of-fact, honest eatery that has been a feature in Ginza for more than 50 years. Prices are better than reasonable. The wine list is adequate, but ample. The service is sometimes under pressure, but the smiles are genuine and the friendliness sincere.

Thomas, our guide, spoke both excellent English and Japanese. Perhaps it's his engaging manner, or perhaps it's the great food, but I have a feeling that this will not be the last time I venture to brave Delhi in Ginza. For what it's worth, affectiandos tell me that the other two venues (Midtown, Ueno) are not a patch on the "honten".

Rating: Food: 7/10; Beer: 7/10; Ambiance: 6/10; Service: 8/10; Price ($): 7/10. Total: 35/50
Delhi (Japanese only) [Map]: 3rd Fl., Nishi Ginza Bldg., 6-3-11, Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo. Tel: 03-3571-7895

They'll be seeing me again ... a presto!

It was at the recommendation of the Headhunter, Gentle Reader, that the Child Bride and I were scouring the back streets of Aoyama to find A Presto [map]. Sad to relate, but we did a "blocker" before I decided to call - to find myself standing outside the said establishment! "A presto" is Italian for "see you again", which sentiment I wholeheartedly support for this fine restaurant.

A table of 6, Chef Nobematsu was kind enough to seat us in the private dining room although I fear this may have been a furtive attempt at noise control. A Presto is an impressive venue, hidden from the madding crowds yet bright and cheery with knowledgeable and energetic staff.

The Headhunter had been gracing A Presto for years, so at his advice we all opted for the Cene A ('A' dinner) with 3 of us substituting a meat course for the fish. Ever accommodating, Chef was really very comfortable with this idea and added a "taster" version of the lamb at your Humble Correspondent's request.

Chef is very proud of his Bagna Cauda, and serves it with vegetables and home-made bread as an amuse to all his customers. Now I know why Michael Garabaldi attempted so valiantly to smuggle it aboard Babylon 5 - although I am not a huge fan of Anchovies, this is a delightfully inelegant way to start a meal that promotes conversation, friendship, and appetite.

The six appetizers, impressively plated, show Chef's skills off well and provide a sophisticated tour of campagne cooking that all builds towards the primo piatti pasta. Offered a choice between a Chicken in Cream Sauce or a slightly spicy Beef Tongue, our table decided to split the difference. Unfortunately, this prompted a lively discussion about which was best - a tie, we decided, and bordering on excellent!

We chose the 2002(?) Gavi "Filagnotti" as our white wine. The sommelier at A Presto is both accommodating and knowlegeable, and you would do well to follow her advice if you need help with the Italian and French wines on this excellent list. Our red, 1998(?) Brunello di Montalcino, was excellent (Note to self: Order this ASAP!).

There is no doubt in my mind that I "won" with the Satsuma-imo fed pork cutlet I had chosen as my main meal. Chef spends considerable time melding the Palma ham and pork fillet together before breading, and then turns it out crisp and golden from a double virgin olive oil bath. A touch of fresh lemon juice, and we're off to Royal Ascot! Oh, Gentle Reader, this is one of those "hold every morsel in the mouth as long as possible" dishes: it is simply a delight! I think I recall that others enjoyed their Sea-bass as well. Chef doubled up with the Lamb, and my bliss was complete. Among the best I've ever eaten, sweet yet flavoursome through to the bone.

Dessert was again a medley of Italian classics, with my favourites the Pumpkin Mousse and the Strawberry Sorbet.

Enjoy A Presto with friends and lovers, although I advise making a reservation well in advance.

Rating: Food: 8/10; Wine: 7/10; Ambiance: 8/10; Service: 8/10; Price ($$): 7/10. Total: 38/50
A Presto [map]: Kita-Aoyama 3-13-1, Minato-Ku. Tel: 03-5774-6216