One feels one’s age, Gentle Reader, when
one stumbles into a hostelry full of people in their 30s. It is often loud, bustling, and self-possesed. While such a
situation promises a certain economy, it also begs a disquieting sense of
clatter and the fear of a tendency to trend rather than excellence. Your Humble
Correspondent is therefore pleased to report that Ata in Sarugakucho
demonstrates neither of these characteristics.
The restaurant is a touch tight to be sure,
but makes up for this with fine service and familiar yet formidable cuisine
coupled with a very good wine list. Ask for the secret menu and for “special”
wines. YHC was presented with an Israeli Chardonnay which surprised, intrigued,
and challenged simultaneously.
The occasion was a quiet dinner between two
friends, and Ata provided a warm refuge on a chill winter’s evening. There is a
heartfelt attention to detail on provenance although one has to sometimes coax
it out of the floor team.
Humor me, and order the mussels in white
wine: it comes with pleasantly toasted baguette and you will be encouraged to
use the shells as weapons as you fight over any remaining broth. Hokkaido
oysters from Akkeshi were plump, highlighting the bounty of the cold Kanryu
currents and needed only a touch of lemon juice and fresh pepper to be nearly
transcendent.
There is welcome variation on the menu
for main courses to prompt indecision and a protean feeling of impending
regret. Try the splendid duck or the delectable lamb. Desserts are more workmanlike, but help to round out an evening of casual indulgence.
Fear not, Gentle Reader, and sally forth with
pennants flying. Order generously but with an eye to the waistline. Apparently, sharing is tolerated even though YHC allows no such indignity at his table.
Ata is a place to enjoy with friends; a
place for genteel carousing and raucous laughter. A destination to revel in, and visit frequently. Give yourself a little longer
than usual to linger, and warn the downstairs staff you may be home a little later than normal..
And ignore the gnome in the corner burbling
into his Bouillabaisse: I shan’t take long and will be on my way soon enough!
Pip pip!
Rating: Food: 8/10; At-Homeness: 8/10; Service: 8/10; Ambiance: 7/10; Price-Performance: 8/10
Total: 39/50 (3 Forks)
Ata: 2-5 Sarugakucho, Shibuya t: 03-6809-0965
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