Food without memory is just digestion

Tuesday 12 November 2019

Quotidien - Experience Shun


It has been some time, Gentle Reader, since your Humble Correspondent had darkened the doors of Quotidien in Azabu-Juban. Likely much to the delight of the Proprietors. 

But subjected to the entreaties of The Tall Poppy, we succumbed and journeyed forth in high anticipation. As it turned out, he was late. Sigh ...


This is the sort of restaurant that has much in its favor. Small, quiet, attentive staff, and a sort of “familiar” sense of ease and comfort. A special little wine list, with most options within reach of a fiscally challenged rapscallion such as your Humble Correspondent. There's a sense of ceremony riding the piccolo elevator to the 2nd floor and making a suitably flamboyant entrance.

Likewise the menu, recently featured on Eatpia https://www.eatpia.com. There is a certain chasseur-ine appeal to wild boar sourced from (of all places) Wakayama. Carefully sourced vegetables, precarious but precious quantities of the bounty of the sea, exquisite desserts, and possibly the best bread in Tokyo. Changes are frequent, reflecting seasonality and availability.

A slight detour, Gentle Reader to explain the Japanese concept of seasonality - there are of course the boring four observed elsewhere, 24 sekki of about 2 weeks each that originated in China, and the far more romantic 72 micro-seasons or Ko. It is these 72 that interest both Chef and us as foodies, for each has its own fish, vegetable, fruit etc. that is at its peak in these five or so days. The word for this highly limited "peak" season is shun. Sadly, this sense of the exquisite is beginning to diminish among younger Japanese for whom refrigeration and slow ripening have become de rigueur.

Quotidien has featured in Michelin reviews, mostly Bib Gourmand: it deserves a better fate. One suspects a certain disregard from Chef Sudo, born of a passion for ingredients rather than replication. He’s remarkably talented, if perhaps occasionally gruff.

BQ brings sophistication to the notion of a “daily” bistro. It delivers elegance to even the most rustic of diners, and delights first-timers through simplicity. There are plenty of regulars or in en Le japonais "jouren". And yet the l’addition never shocks, and the service never fades.

Sally forth Gentle Reader! One would fain beg you not to invite the hoi polloi. Enjoy Quotidien with your closest friends and lovers. Leave out the noshers and the would-be’s.

And should you hear a faint but persistent scratching at the door, toss a crumb or well-chewed bone my way...

Pip pip!

Rating: Food: 8/10; Daily-ness: 8/10; Service: 8/10; Ambiance:8/10; Price-Performance: 8/10
Total: 40/50 (4 Forks)

Quotidien 2F Tamon Azabu, 3-9-2 Azabu Juban, Minato. t: 03-6435-3241

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