Food without memory is just digestion

Saturday, 30 November 2019

L'inedit - Thank heavens for Patissiers

Drop everything you're doing, Gentle Reader, and pick up your telephone. Right now. Or have the help do it. Call L'inedit in Higashi-Azabu and make a reservation. You're welcome...


Your Humble Correspondent recently stumbled his way down Mamiana-zaka from the Tokyo American Club to this venue. Quite a challenge after 2 martinis really, and a tiring journey of some 81.7 meters.This herculean effort seemed to somewhat annoy the Apple Watch, which then proceeded to pepper the evening with diabolical commands like "Stand Up", "Breathe" and  - rather more ominously - "Close your rings!".

The occasion was a meal with The Once and Future Blonde and The Professor. The restaurant choice had fallen to Your Humble Correspondent (as it should), and after a gentle nudge from www.eatpia.com we had our Girl Friday duly make the reservations. Thank Heavens for Girls and Boys Friday...

The proprietors seem to have done away with such antediluvian notions as a menu, and instead present a meal in eight acts. You will be asked if you wish to indulge in the wine pairings - pray do this, for they know more than you do, padawan.

On our visit, the meal consisted of:
  • an amuse with pate de campagne wrapped in a thrilling piece of pastry (be still my beating heart!), 
  • a white bean soup that seemed to float from bowl to mouth, 
  • a Hachis Parmentier (a rich man's version of Shepherds Pie),
  • Long-tailed Red snapper with a carrot coulis (sigh),
  • Soshuko chicken from the Chiba/Saitama border, and
  • three desserts as befits a patissier couple. Including a callison from Provence.

The Professor is an ardent trencherman, but L'inedit stopped him in his tracks. The wines were each interesting and delicious, from smaller producers. The pairings were perfect. Your Humble Correspondent was at this point slightly tipsy and neglected to jot these down. Oh the shame ...

This is a restaurant you simply must try, only open for dinner because of the detailed prep that goes into each meal. No stars, no fuss, just passion.

Born of two patissiers with deep French experience who have also pleasured the sweet teeth of G20 diplomats at Lake Toya, it is small enough to be intimate and tastefully decorated enough to be almost immediately familiar. Service is warm and attentive.

Try too, Gentle Reader, the Sunday brunch. Pastries, breads, eggs done your way, and copious quantities of bubbles.

L'inedit is a restaurant to fall back on again and again. Invite only those close to your heart for fear of it becoming too popular. And that strange cooing you hear? Pray a benison for a fat fool!

Pip pip!

Rating: Food: 8/10; Foodie-Friendliness: 8/10; Service: 9/10; Ambiance:9/10; Price-Performance: 8/10 
Total: 42/50 (4 Forks)

L'inedit2-10-7 HigashiAzabu, Minato-ku t: 03-6426-5589

Tuesday, 12 November 2019

Quotidien - Experience Shun


It has been some time, Gentle Reader, since your Humble Correspondent had darkened the doors of Quotidien in Azabu-Juban. Likely much to the delight of the Proprietors. 

But subjected to the entreaties of The Tall Poppy, we succumbed and journeyed forth in high anticipation. As it turned out, he was late. Sigh ...


This is the sort of restaurant that has much in its favor. Small, quiet, attentive staff, and a sort of “familiar” sense of ease and comfort. A special little wine list, with most options within reach of a fiscally challenged rapscallion such as your Humble Correspondent. There's a sense of ceremony riding the piccolo elevator to the 2nd floor and making a suitably flamboyant entrance.

Likewise the menu, recently featured on Eatpia https://www.eatpia.com. There is a certain chasseur-ine appeal to wild boar sourced from (of all places) Wakayama. Carefully sourced vegetables, precarious but precious quantities of the bounty of the sea, exquisite desserts, and possibly the best bread in Tokyo. Changes are frequent, reflecting seasonality and availability.

A slight detour, Gentle Reader to explain the Japanese concept of seasonality - there are of course the boring four observed elsewhere, 24 sekki of about 2 weeks each that originated in China, and the far more romantic 72 micro-seasons or Ko. It is these 72 that interest both Chef and us as foodies, for each has its own fish, vegetable, fruit etc. that is at its peak in these five or so days. The word for this highly limited "peak" season is shun. Sadly, this sense of the exquisite is beginning to diminish among younger Japanese for whom refrigeration and slow ripening have become de rigueur.

Quotidien has featured in Michelin reviews, mostly Bib Gourmand: it deserves a better fate. One suspects a certain disregard from Chef Sudo, born of a passion for ingredients rather than replication. He’s remarkably talented, if perhaps occasionally gruff.

BQ brings sophistication to the notion of a “daily” bistro. It delivers elegance to even the most rustic of diners, and delights first-timers through simplicity. There are plenty of regulars or in en Le japonais "jouren". And yet the l’addition never shocks, and the service never fades.

Sally forth Gentle Reader! One would fain beg you not to invite the hoi polloi. Enjoy Quotidien with your closest friends and lovers. Leave out the noshers and the would-be’s.

And should you hear a faint but persistent scratching at the door, toss a crumb or well-chewed bone my way...

Pip pip!

Rating: Food: 8/10; Daily-ness: 8/10; Service: 8/10; Ambiance:8/10; Price-Performance: 8/10
Total: 40/50 (4 Forks)

Quotidien 2F Tamon Azabu, 3-9-2 Azabu Juban, Minato. t: 03-6435-3241