L'AS - Kickin'

L'AS: \lˈās\
(1) n. The Ace (card) [mod. French]
(2) pn Foodie Heaven

Gentle Reader, forgive the mundane and tasteless pun in the headline. It was, as are most things for Your Humble Correspondent, entirely spur-of-the-moment and instinctive. But eminently enjoyable ...

L'AS (sic, Caps) is a relatively new hostelry in Minami-Aoyama, located thoughtfully a little off Koto-doori. Far enough off to be quiet and tranquil, close enough to question raising the brolly on inclement days. Sensibly on the ground floor, providing some relief and remedy for YHC's gouty ankles.

The ambiance is immediately inviting and familiar, with a well-spaced table layout in intimate proximity to the plating station and with less than four metres between you and Chef Daisuke Kaneko. M. Kaneko is refreshingly young and irrepressible, and his time in Cahors seems to shine in (un)expected places through the menu. In combination with Kouichi Tanabe as sommelier he has created the latest "go-to" venue for trend-weary yet adventurous diners. 

The Prix Fixe menu - the only option,and irresistable value at Y5,250 - changes about every two weeks depending on what delectables are in season and available. Even if you grace the door again within that two week period, Gentle Reader, you are likely to find something different to delight and divert. Young Kaneko advises that the menu is likely to look something like:

• Amuse Bouche
• Chilled entree
• Warm entree
• Seafood course
• Meat course
• Avan Dessert (a pre-dessert such as a sorbet or similar)
• Dessert
• A "finish"

Lest this all sound too much: quieten your racing heart, Gentle Reader, in the knowledge that each course is measured and defined to sate without surfeit. There is very attractive playfulness in many of the courses, and the service is discreet and light in touch. L'AS boasts a very attractive wine list, again at reasonable prices.

Your Humble Correspondent visited in the company of a Foodie Master for a little tete-a-tete par deux - honestly, this is likely the best approach as L'AS is likely wasted on clients and superiors whose self-worth is a necessary component of the conversation. Visit before the dread Michelin stardom drives up prices, and enjoy introducing lovers and friends to the experience that is L'AS.

And should you stumble over a slightly rounded speed-bump, help me up ... please!

Pip! Pip!

L'AS: 5-16-5 Minami-Aoyama, MA FIVE 1F Bldg, Minato Ward, 〒107-0062.
t: 080-3310-4058 (Reservations only by mobile, only 14:00-18:00; 22:00-24:00)

Rating: Food: 8/10; Kick-i-ness: 8/10; Service: 8/10; Ambiance: 8/10; Price-Performance: 8/10. Total: 40/50 (4 Forks)