Food without memory is just digestion

Wednesday, 13 November 2013

Riva degli Etruschi - Live like a Lordling!

Back in the days of our betters, Gentle Reader, it was the want of the heirs to aristocratic fortunes to spend some time travelling to the Continent after the rigors of Oxford and Cambridge in something affectionately known as the Grand Tour. While the routes and ramblings of the Tour were as wide and varied as the participants, one of the "must-sees" of the journey was Florence (that gem of Tuscany!). 
And as befits the English colonial mentality, this led to hordes of Englishmen settling in and around Florence from the start of the 19th Century. While one expects that this resulted in a calamitous reduction in the collective IQ of the City of Leonardo and Michelangelo, it likely also gave rise to much more appropriate levels of sarcasm, pomposity, and general spontaneous gaiety (as shown in this portrait of Robert Spencer, 2nd Earl of Sunderland). Yes, those Spencers - including Winston, and Diana. Seems all together logical really ...

Happily, it also brought about the birth of bistecca Florentina (T-Bone steak) as said lordlings would demand their pound of flesh (and pay handsomely for the privilege). What they didn't realize was that the beef was actually only a by-product of the leather industry and they could have had it for the price of offal...

All of which is apropos of nothing except that Riva degli Estruschi has become part of Your Humble Correspondent's piccolo Grand Tour of Tokyo's Italian restaurants. And the name translates as "The Hills of Tuscany".

Housed in a purpose-built facility in the quieter back streets of Minami Aoyama, Riva is at once a joy and a rather imposing sight where those of my ilk wonder whether we're "right" enough to win entry. But after one battles through the admittance procedures, the dining spaces are bright and airy and redolent with Tuscan motifs and accouterments. Service is suitably Italian bipolar, hovering between genuine joy and sullen resentment but always prompt and correct.

The cooking at Riva degli Estruschi is superb. Simplicity is paramount in the Tuscan culinary practice [see this excellent article], which characteristic endears it to Your Humble Correspondent. Riva makes this simplicity into a virtue, and brilliantly highlights seasonality together with some sprezzatura to make the arrival of each dish a small discovery and a wholesome joy in its own right. Spencerian really ...

As befits an area so saturated with glory, Tuscany is home to some grand DOC including Chianti, San Gimignano, and Brunello - and of course the Super Tuscans. So the wine list at Riva is extensive, ebullient, and expensive. But grand, in the best Medici fashion.

One fears, Gentle Reader, that it is best to dine at Riva on somebody else's credit card. It is therefore appropriate to go with colleagues and visitors... or an English aristocrat.

And should you happen on a chortling little fat man, perhaps with a cigar and glass of bubbly, do the right thing and send over a bottle of the best!

Pip! Pip!

Riva degli Etruschi: 3-15-12 Minami Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo (t: 03-3470-7473)
Rating: Food: 7/10; Tuscaniness: 8/10; Service: 7/10; Ambiance: 7/10; Price-Performance: 7/10. Total: 36/50 (3 Forks)

Tuesday, 12 November 2013

Monkeying around at Saru

Time, Gentle Reader, to update you on Saru. Your Humble Correspondent (YHC) is loathe, however, to tell you too much for fear that you will love it as passionately as he and it will then become impossible for this anti-social Fat Boy to get a reservation. As the new "go-to" option for oneself and The Once and Future Blonde, this would be tiresome. Nevertheless, ... sigh! Once more into the jaws of death ...


The art in "mine-host"-ing, Gentle Reader, is to ingratiate your venue with a certain group of customers (oft referred to as the Punters) by virtue of relentless focus on one of four or five factors: (1) extraordinary cooking; (2) extraordinary (or unusual) ingredients; (3) extraordinary service; (4) extraordinary ambiance; or - how crass - (5) price. Factors 1 to 3 will get you a Michelin star or two - ambiance is not part of Bibendum's calculation. A discussion about price for Michelin is so... well, cheap.

Zoning in just on Factor 5 is a McDonald's experience ... again, ambiance is not part of the calculation.

In Your Humble Correspondent's even humbler experience to date, an 5F performance is a very rare experience, a consummation devoutly to be wished. In a stupefying career involving more than a thousand restaurants, YHC has perhaps had two or three 5F's. Saru is not quite 5F, but it is on the journey and should be encouraged via your custom. 

Quibble not at the view from the street ... Saru comes from humble beginnings and is proud of them. Nor quail at the two communal tables inside (the pleasant summer balcony becomes a covered deck in the colder months and has two tables for four) each seating ten. After all, feasting is a benison best shared and has the pleasant benefit of permitting intrusive stickybeak-ing in the interests of friendliness. There are also four seats at the counter, but balancing has never been Your Humble Correspondent's strong point.

The menu presents as a simple "carte", but YHC counsels close study before committing to an order. The focus is on centemporary with a capital "C".  Each dish features delightful eccentricity, making the most of some amazing ingredients carefully selected from all over Japan and showcased by a very skillful chef. Serving are fulsome, and even the most valiant trencher-man will come away sated after choosing three dishes. The Bagna Cauda is excellent, and the Lotus Root and Sakura Ebi Pancake has been known to bring braver men to their knees.

Charcuterie seems to be a specialty, and everything is (of course!) hand-made en place. Fruits and vegetables are given as much attention as meats, and the cheese selection (while limited) is excellent. In an excellent sort of way ...

It should come as no surprise that the wine list is similarly peripatetic,and offers incredible value. No grand labels or chateaus here, but almost every option shows refined insights into mariage and a better palate than mine.

Saru keeps its Punters happy and lubricated, and you will never want for attention. The floor team at Saru is informed, impassioned, and infused with energy. English is de rigeur and the people are genuinely pleasant. For those as impecunious as YHC, Saru is remarkable value - remarkable enough to be a weekly habit. Think a tenner for two.

So do toddle along, but perhaps choose a day early in the week to leave space on the dance card for this humble servant of gastronomy on le weekend. And if we happen to hang our coats on the same evening sometime, just smile and forgive!

Pip! Pip!


Saru: 3-49-1 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo (t:  03-6450-4836)
Rating: Food: 8/10; Regionality: 8/10; Service: 8/10; Ambiance: 7/10; Price-Performance: 9/10. Total: 40/50 (4 Forks)

Friday, 11 October 2013

Recent Victuals

Apologies for being a little absent (minded) recently ... not one's first choice, but the result of having to earn one's daily sustenance. At the same time, it is a matter of some joy (and considerable waistline consternation) that Your Humble Correspondent has sampled a range of hostelries which will be blogged in these unremarkable pages over the next few weeks. Try them - it will surely be worth your while, and you may get to spy a culinary vagabond in your travels. A (?) notation signifies one needs to re-visit to confirm the rating.
 
Aila (LINK): 1-16-3 Ebisu-Minami Shibuya-ku Tokyo (t: 03-5721-6063).
A pleasant little Frenchie, with a deft hand in the kitchen (try the Foie Gras Omelette) but less skill on the floor with slow and uninformed service. YHC spent a week here the other night, ... but the food!.
Rating: 35/50 (?), 3 Forks

Marzac (LINK): 2-2-3 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo (t: 03-6418-5063).
Marzac is not your grandfather's sort of restaurant, and one occasionally feels chronologically challenged amongst the young and boisterous crowd. But it boasts robust and daring variations on standard dishes (try the Amaebi al ajillo or one of the daily confits). An eccentric but delicious wine list, and remarkably economical.
Rating: 36/50, 3 Forks

Saru (LINK): 3-49-1 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo (t: 03-6450-4836)
Thank you Mr Lacoste! Saru focuses on regional ingredients in an extremely serious way, yet manages to sustain a casual and friendly atmosphere that matches its excellent menu and highly original wine list. Chef Muramatsu seems to be having more fun than legally possible (try the Bagna Cauda or the Ezojika), and the staff are remarkably informative and helpful.
Rating: 38/50 (?), 4 Forks

Riva degli Etruschi (LINK): 3-15-12 Minami Aoya, Minato-ku, Tokyo (t: 03-3470-7473)
An elegant and enjoyable Italian that borrows significantly from Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence, seasoned by more than 15 years of experience in Japan. This is Tuscan cooking at its best (try the Gnocchi with ricotta or the Roast Pork fillet), and although the wine list is a little pricey it does offer some of the best examples of the Italian oenological tradition in Tokyo. Best visited on someone else's credit card or immediately after pay day.
Rating: 38/50 (?), 4 Forks

148_@AzabuJyuban (LINK): 2-18-4 Azabu Juban, Minato-ku, Tokyo (t: 03-5765-2148)
 Marcus has moved his 148 conglomerate from Hiroo to the Juban, and YHC for one welcomes the move. A feisty chef who won't allow him (Marcus) in the kitchen, and a much more navigable venue mean you should pay this fine little venue a visit. The wine list is extravagantly fulsome, and the menu retains the favorites from before (try Dad's Prawn Toast and the scrumptious Smoky Chops). And, as ever, Marcus always has something new on the boil (no pun intended)!
Rating: 37/50 (?), 3 Forks

Le Terroir (Link): 3-4-15 Mejiro, Toshima-ku, Tokyo (t: 03 6915-3857)
A beautiful rustic room in a very sophisticated storied area of Tokyo. With an almost maniacal range of French wines, and an interesting menu (try the French Mussels in White Wine Sauce and the Skirt Steak [harami]), this restaurant is seriously worth the journey. And it's delightfully easy on the purse. Yves and his team go out of their way to make you feel at home, and hopelessly inadequate in the face of the wines of the Rhone, Languedoc-Roussillon and Loire vignobles.
Rating: 37/50, 3 Forks

 Sourire (Link): 1-15-2 Aobadai, Meguro-ku, Tokyo (t: 03-5784-2036)
Ah, this place is a joy! One leaves the cooking and the portion details to Chef Yuzawa, and concentrates on the company and the conversation. The menu is highly seasonal so it is pointless to make a recommendation, but experiment with full confidence and courage. Be brave.
Rating: 38/50, 4 Forks

 

Thursday, 27 June 2013

L'AS - Kickin'


L'AS: \lˈās\
(1) n. The Ace (card) [mod. French]
(2) pn Foodie Heaven

Gentle Reader, forgive the mundane and tasteless pun in the headline. It was, as are most things for Your Humble Correspondent, entirely spur-of-the-moment and instinctive. But eminently enjoyable ...


L'AS (sic, Caps) is a relatively new hostelry in Minami-Aoyama, located thoughtfully a little off Koto-doori. Far enough off to be quiet and tranquil, close enough to question raising the brolly on inclement days. Sensibly on the ground floor, providing some relief and remedy for YHC's gouty ankles.

The ambiance is immediately inviting and familiar, with a well-spaced table layout in intimate proximity to the plating station and with less than four metres between you and Chef Daisuke Kaneko. M. Kaneko is refreshingly young and irrepressible, and his time in Cahors seems to shine in (un)expected places through the menu. In combination with Kouichi Tanabe as sommelier he has created the latest "go-to" venue for trend-weary yet adventurous diners. 

The Prix Fixe menu - the only option,and irresistable value at Y5,250 - changes about every two weeks depending on what delectables are in season and available. Even if you grace the door again within that two week period, Gentle Reader, you are likely to find something different to delight and divert. Young Kaneko advises that the menu is likely to look something like:
  • Amuse Bouche
  • Chilled entree
  • Warm entree
  • Seafood course
  • Meat course
  • Avan Dessert (a pre-dessert such as a sorbet or similar)
  • Dessert
  • A "finish"
Lest this all sound too much: quieten your racing heart, Gentle Reader, in the knowledge that each course is measured and defined to sate without surfeit. There is very attractive playfulness in many of the courses, and the service is discreet and light in touch. L'AS boasts a very attractive wine list, again at reasonable prices.

Your Humble Correspondent visited in the company of a Foodie Master for a little tete-a-tete par deux - honestly, this is likely the best approach as L'AS is likely wasted on clients and superiors whose self-worth is a necessary component of the conversation. Visit before the dread Michelin stardom drives up prices, and enjoy introducing lovers and friends to the experience that is L'AS.

And should you stumble over a slightly rounded speed-bump, help me up ... please!

Pip! Pip!

L'AS: 5-16-5 Minami-Aoyama, MA FIVE 1F Bldg, Minato Ward, 〒107-0062.
t: 080-3310-4058 (Reservations only by mobile, only 14:00-18:00; 22:00-24:00)
Rating: Food: 8/10; Kick-i-ness: 8/10; Service: 8/10; Ambiance: 8/10; Price-Performance: 8/10. Total: 40/50 (4 Forks)

Thursday, 30 May 2013

Ukai: Tofu like you've never experienced.





It would be a very major mistake, Gentle Reader, to assume that the Ukai tofu restaurant nearby Tokyo Tower was ... well, a tofu restaurant. Because it is that, yet oh so much more. A refuge, an oasis, a quiet corner in this clattering city, a joy to enter and a savage anti-climax to leave. Its beautiful gardens are soothing and consoling, and the individual room layout always mean you and your guests get to concentrate on one another rather than the cacophony of the chattering classes.

Your Humble Correspondent is - obviously - quite taken with Ukai. One's week is not complete without manufacturing a reason to take in its serenity, beautifully accented by a course of washoku dishes that satisfy and transform a meal into an experience.
A note: Ukai - though quite good - is certainly not the height of Japanese cuisine, and one shouldn't be looking for the "best in Tokyo" in each of the courses. That said, Gentle Reader, there is no better place within walking distance of Your Humble Correspondent's daytime penitentiary to ... well, "zen" out.
The service is exemplary, discreet and individual. From the moment one arrives to the sad farewell, Ukai offers a reasonable (Y5,000), unique and fulfilling experience at visceral contrast with most other destinations. Very little indeed is difficult, and language is not an issue.
The Take course is the best option, with an appropriate balance of the number of courses with a sensible volume. It will start with a seasonal vegetable, and then launches immediately into the meibutsu dry-fried agedofu with freshly-chopped negi and a sweet miso sauce. Ukai calls this delight age-dentaku ... Your Humble Correspondent prefers "manna".
Next is the tsukuri, or seasonal sashimi, followed by the hassun (which actually refers to the size of the dish at 8 sun or 24cm). One moves on leisurely to Ukai's famous tofu soup, followed by the shokuji or rice dish signifying the end of the meal. Except for a delicate wagashi (Japanese sweet) and tea.
While reluctant to offer anything resembling advice, Your Humble Correspondent suggests you add this venue to your list of haunts. Your friends will thank you, and you'll really feel much better about the world afterwards.
Visit Ukai alone, with impressible clients, or with your superiors. And the shape-chaging tanuki-like denizen ... well, don't mind me!
 
The Japanese website is utterly better than the English one ...
 
Pip! Pip!
Ukai4-4-13 Shiba-Koen, Minato-ku, Tokyo t:03-3436-1028
Rating: Food: 7/10; Everyday-ness: 7/10; Service: 7/10; Ambiance: 7/10; Price-Performance: 7/10. Total: 36550 (3 Forks)

Wednesday, 29 May 2013

Bistrot Quotidien - Anything but Everyday!

There is a reason, Gentle Reader, why Michelin introduced the "Bonnes Petites Tables" to Tokyo. Actually, 2 reasons: (1) the stated one ("introducing cosy and nice French restaurants to our dear readers"); and (2) further exacerbating Your Humble Correspondent's impecuniosity by introducing more restaurants he needs to frequent. In a previous life, one was fortunate to have an employer who thought it desirable - if not incumbent on me - that one should have a full and experiential knowledge of fine food in Tokyo. Alas, not so today...

It seems to me, at least, that frequenting "nice and cosy" French restaurants is a consumation devoutly to be wished, if not actualized. So it was with considerable anticipation that we toddled off to Bistrot Quotidien for a slightly celebratory dinner. And "nice and cosy" it certainly is.

Actually, it is rather nice and perhaps a little less cosy. All menus list as Prix Fixe, which is delightfully Gallic but slightly boring and perhaps inadventurous. One can understand Chef Ryosuke Sudo's thinking here, with an earnest desire to replicate the neighbourhood bistros one finds all over Paris. The desired goal is an intimate relationship between establishment and customer, with the time invested by both parties in the relationship rewarded with warm trust and a "reliability". To borrow a phrase, M. Sudo seeks to create joren (regular customer; regular patron; frequenter).

He has succeeded, at least with this humble diner. Bistrot Quotidien is not a sanatorium for OL; it is not beset by gaggles of giggles like so many other newer establishments in Tokyo. The table layout is relaxed and assured, and service model is designed not to encourage any greater capacity than exists at present. Every move is designed for calm efficiency, at least when requested in Japanese. Having opened the week before the tragic events of 3/11, one imagines there has been plenty of time to get things right while Tokyo got itself back on its feet.

The wine list is similarly well structured, stepping one through the main appelations with a welcome clarity of purpose and no complicated journeys into dead ends or cul-de-sacs. In fact, for amateurs like Your Humble Correspondent the journey here is familar and free from dragons. We enjoyed a pleasant little Champagne, some mouthsome Sancerre and a Chateauneuf-de-Pape that added immediately to the atmosphere.

The cooking is what you expect from a venue with these sort of ambitions, and the Gagnaire influence is strong. We thoroughly enjoyed every course, served with relish and alacrity, and loads of happiness and warmth.

Visit Bistrot Quotidien when you need some comfort and friendliness. Do please become a joren, because then we'll meet more often ....

Pip! Pip!
Bistrot Quotidien2F Azabu Juban 3-9-2, Minato-Ku, Tokyo t:03-6435-3241
Rating: Food: 7/10; Everyday-ness: 7/10; Service: 7/10; Ambiance: 7/10; Price-Performance: 7/10. Total: 36550 (3 Forks)

Tuesday, 28 May 2013

Ambigram: A little Toni?

One imagines, Gentle Reader, that the last thing the Hiroo area needs is another Italian restaurant. Actually, any sort of restaurant. With establishments good, bad, and indifferent on almost every corner Your Humble Correspondent would argue that discretion might in fact be the better part of valour. Apparently not. Ambigram might in fact be more properly described as being located in Tengenji-bashi, down a romantic lane way from the temple itself. Might, but for the roadworks and incessant construction. Still, one digresses ...
One Chef Izawa is seemingly insufficient for Ambigram. Twin brothers (Koji trained as a chef in Italy and Kazuaki a patissier ex France ... which twin has the Toni?) rule the Ambigram-inal roost. The place has an energetic and lithesome feel, and while one shouldn't go overboard on the pot-rattlers it seems to work remarkably (fraternally?) well.
A quick look at the menu will suffice to reassure you, Gentle Reader, that the Brothers Izawa have resolutely picked the eyes out of "standard" Italian fare to ensure that you won't be disappointed. But one should really take the time to closely examine the daily menu for little gems - like burrata, the delightful Puglia version of yuba; or osso buco; or splendid little seasonal vegetable numbers.
It may be their relative youth but the Izawa fratelli have seemed to be on the top of their game whenever Your Humble Correspondent has darkened the doorstep, with one exception on a relatively simple veal option which seemed to be over-wrought and aiming for frippery rather than simplicity. One should also add the Once and Future Blonde was also disappointed - but in a spirit of generosity and forgiveness we should overlook these little peccadilloes.
The wine list is authentically Italian, reaching even to San Gimignano verdecchio which is one of Your Humble Correspondent's favorite tipples. Tuscany and other famous DOC are sprinkled here and there, while prices are particularly reasonable.
One area where Ambigram excels is the happy and thoughtful service team. Despite having been opened for about a year, they dance the tables seamlessly and skilfully meaning that even the most demanding guest departs sated and happy.
It is slightly difficult to classify Ambigram but it seems best suited to friends and energized colleagues rather than the place for a formal outing. And should you see a slightly puzzled gnome with trace of yellow burrata staining the napkins - well, raise a glass won't you!
 
Pip! Pip!
Ambigram106-0047 Minami-Azabu 4−12−4 Plachina Court Hiroo 1F, Minato-Ku, Tokyo t:03-3449-7722
Rating: Food: 7/10; Izawa-ness: 8/10; Service: 7/10; Ambiance: 7/10; Price-Performance: 7/10. Total: 36/50 (3 Forks)

Sunday, 26 May 2013

Alladin - Always a delight! [Redux]



 
Classic restaurants - like classic art, Gentle Reader - seem to get better with each visit. A recipe polished here and there; a deeper relationship 'twixt host and guest; an ever-so-slightly warmer welcome burnished by knowledge of both preferences and peccadilloes. It is both a joy and relief to slide easily into the comfortable, and a knowing smile replaces surprise and affectation.
 
Thus Alladin in Ebisu. Chef Kawasaki has refined his art over the years, as if charged with the pursuit of a culinary perfection that is both elusive and Elysian. Simple, classic food with a laser focus on quality produce and technique sharpened by repetition and refining. Food fashions come and go, fortunately. But chefs like M. Kawasaki always take you back to the roots of your love affair with food, and challenge your interpretation of technique with hints and whispers that delight the senses and ease the mind.
 
Mind you, you need to know your stuff to appreciate what's going on at Alladin. With only the slightest tinge of irony, Your Humble Correspondent recommends other venues if you seek steak frites or a quick Greek Salad. Chef Kawasaki is not your man. But if, like this blithe spirit, you feel up to the challenge Gentle Reader - then tally ho and damn the torpedoes.
 
Your Humble Correspondent visited Alladin again after a hiatus of some years, rekindling a relationship with a well-known foreign advertising identity. For the occasion, we revisited the meal we had at Alladin all those years ago (blogged here in 2006): fresh asparagus in a delightful butter sauce; chicken delivered that morning all the way from Brest; a Tarte Tatin that is the best in Tokyo, if not the entire world.
 
Exquisite and competent service, in a quiet and helpful way. Not needing to detail every ingredient, and lacking inappropriate theatre and unnecessary pomp. 
 
A coupe de champagne to toast and a demi of white to highlight the delicate flavors of the main course. Life at its best, lunch at its finest ...
 
Please visit Alladin soon, with friends and lovers rather than colleagues. Time at Alladin should be spent engrossed in companionship, not measured in minutes and billed in quarter-hours.
 
Pip! Pip!

Alladin: 1GFL, 2-22-10 Ebisu, Hiroo Riverside, Shibuya-Ku, Tokyo t:03-5420-0038
Rating: Food: 9/10; Magic: 8/10; Service: 8/10; Ambiance: 9/10; Price-Performance: 8/10. Total: 42/50 (4 Forks)

Salle a Manger - A Silken Touch

We seek him here, We seek him there
Those Frenchies seek him everywhere
Is he in Heaven, or is he in Hell
That demmed ... elusive ... Pimpernel!
"The Scarlet Pimpernel", 1903, Baroness Emmuska Orczy

Yes, time for a return.

There is some debate, Gentle Reader, about the origin of the word "bouchon" used today to describe some 21 establishments accreditted by the Association for the Preservation of Lyonnais Bouchon. Seems a little too self-absorbed for personal preference, but delightfully Gallic and likely useful as an argument starter.

Your Humble Correspondent would fain join the debate, but notes with no little delight that the tradition of the bouchon has spread even to these Sakura shores in the form of a number of establishments that preserve the two essential elements: a focus on the cuisine lyonnais  and overwhelming hospitality and bonhomie. Some examples worthy of your exalted custom include Le Lion in Ebisu and the superb Lugdunum in Kagurazaka.

And now, Salle a Manger lately relocated to Ginza and pleasantly packed with happy punters ... although few looked like they were silk weavers or dyers, and most seemed to have bulging purses. 

Our guide was a wonderfully urbane Japanese gentleman practising in the law, whose company had showed remarkable foresight in despatching him to la belle France for some two or three years as a young solicitor fleeing the prison of a career as an enginer (deliberate). During this sojourn in Paris, he developed a penchant for Foie Gras in the French style. Why, then, Lyonnaise is still a mystery but Your Humble Correspondent shares this secret shame and was delighted to toddle along.

The entree course was fulsome and "authentique", and YHC added a Pate en Croute to the Foie Gras and Salade Gatronomique chosen by one's fellow revellers (although the Andouillette and Pied de Couchon were also extremely tempting). My main course was a delightful Cuisse de pintade farcie au foie-gras (Thigh of Gineau Fowl, boned, and stuffed with Foie Gras and forcemeats) which was moist and mischeviously beckoning, likely adding an inch to Your Humble Correspondent's already bulging waistline.

Unusually for a bouchon, the dessert list is interesting and complete - demanding attention and frivolous discussion. The wine list is exquisite, and we enjoyed a beautiful Sancerre as well as a lovely Rhone  as well as (mais oui!) some Sauternes for the Foie Gras. One had little choice but to finish with a Calvados nearly as mature as YHC.

There are some who dismiss Your Humble Correspondent as foppish and vague but he promises Salle a Manger will be a very welcome addition to your carte of inner-city refuges far from the madding crowds of bankers and lawyers. And should you spy a lurker at the door ... why, please invite me in! I promise I won't eat much...

Pip! Pip!

Salle a Manger: B1, 7-2-8 Ginza, Takaya-Ginza, Chuo-Ku, Tokyo 104-0061
t:03-62 80 64 81

Rating: Food: 8/10; Bouchon-osity: 8/10; Service: 8/10; Ambiance: 9/10; Price-Performance: 8/10. Total: 41/50 (3 Forks)