L’Amphore

25 Nov 2006 (L'Amphore has moved since this post)

Sometimes you just have to trust the experts when you’re looking for a restaurant, so in this case I left the choice of a new venue within walking distance to the redoubtable Ms Motonaga. [Note to self: do this more often!] This place is a stunner and gets 4 Terry forks. Our visit was only for lunch, but I’m back there on the evening of 4 December with the advertising guy to give it the real once over.

I was there with the Research Guy and a LOHAS geek, for a gentle discussion about something that wasn’t headed in the right direction. We needed to soften up the Geek, and L’Amphore was exactly the right venue.We left the menu up to the chef (a young man who fellow foodies should follow!), and the kitchen knew they were in for a fight when I asked about the preparation details for the Boudin...which was perfect and surprisingly light. Each course that followed was delicate yet brilliantly turned out, and there was more than enough to satisy the two portly chaps as well as the Geek. Unfortunately, this was a lunch gig so we didn’t sample the wine list but it looks marvellously well balanced and I’m sure we’ll be giving it a hiding in the near future.

Choose L’Amphore (seats 16-20) for a sophisticated and elegant luncheon or dinner, but don’t tell your work buddies - this place is too good for them. Just keep it among us!

Rating: Food: 8/10; Wine (list): 7/10; Service: 8/10; Ambience: 8/10; Price: 7/10. Total 38/50 (4 Forks from Terry!).

More than a Glass @ Cheers!

13 Oct 2006

All of us have refuges (and some of us, refugees!) where we return every now and again for a break from the shivering masses that press in upon us every day. For me, Cheers! in Shibuya is one of those places [Map is here.]

Back in Tokyo after 3 weeks in the USA - where food is more often a pastime than a passion - I decided to take a company visitor here on my first night back in town. Struggling through the transport system or battling for a table in the warrens of inner Tokyo was not on my agenda!
The service at Cheers! (be careful - downstairs is a shot bar by the same name, where the menu is not quite the same) is cheerful and well-intentioned, and while the restaurant is small it never fails to delight me.

The Visitor and I were delighted with the Amuse, some home-cured bacon served with the rind and thick enough to need a knife. After my time in the US, where bacon more often resembles cardboard than flavour, this was a real treat. Succulent, full of flavor, and cured to perfection!

We went on to a Bavarois de poivron rouge (V) and a Pate de Campagne (T) for entrees. The Bavarois was brillinatly presented, sweet and superbly accented by the Crab Mousse that accompanied. For my part, the pate was a celebration of the chef’s art with just enough texture to remember the ingredients (lamb?). My impression was that this was handmade, rather than atomized through a food processor, and it did my little heart good to remember all those times in the kitchen struggling to make sense of the predilection of master chefs towards two-handed knife-wielding.

By this stage, the Visitor was under my spell and he joined me in a Cuisse de poulet roti parfume thym. The poor little chicken had travelled all the way from Brest to join us, so we decided to celebrate its arrival with a 2004 Chablis Premier Cru Jean-Claude Besson. After the abomination that presents as cheap Californian chardonnay (not to suggest that there aren’t some great American whites, which fact I am proud testimony to!), this delicate Chablis was the perfect companion to both the food and the conversation.The chicken was well presented and very good, although I can’t help thinking it would have been better as a Confit to take advantage of the delicate balance of flesh and fat.

We finished with some cheese (Mimoret and Chareuse) that was a perfect companion to what remained of the Chablis.

Cheers! also has a bar for a glass of wine and some nibbles pre-theatre, and take my advice by cultivating the sommelier’s excellent knowledge of European wine by sampling some great terroirs at reasonable prices. This little haven is best suited to a dinner for 2, transporting you out of the cacphony of Shibuya into a small yet elegant parlour in the suburbs of Paris. My mid-West friend and I spent less than Y20,000 of someone else’s money (for which we are obviously grateful!).

Ratings: Food: 7/10; Wine: 8/10; Service: 8/10; Ambience: 7/10; Price: 8/10. Total: 38/50 (3 Forks)
Wine Bar Cheers:Dogenzaka 1-7-9 Y-Place 2F ShibuyaTel: 03-3461-612317:30 - 3:00 except Sundays

A Epice of Pleasure

20 Sep 2006

My friend Arthur (may his name be praised for generations!) once did me the honor of inviting me to the delightful Epices Kaneko, tucked away in the back streets of Azabu. I was sufficiently impressed to schedule a return visit with a friend to check on my first impressions of this sweet little refuge of slow food with fast service.

You’ll find it a little difficult to get to the front door (MAP), but stick to the task and you’ll be well rewarded. Featuring produce from Yamaguchi Prefecture, Epices Kaneko is the sort of place for a quiet conversation or even a long, lingering one! It’s a little like visiting a friend’s house, knowing that there’s a series of treats available but harboring a feeling of guilt that you should be thinking about the friend not the food.

There are 3 menu options - a light version (don’t ask me what it’s like...couldn’t bear the thought!), a Starter+Main+Dessert choice @ Y4500, and the full course @ Y6000. My friend and I decided that discretion is the better part of valor and chose the middle ground.

The Foie Gras starter (that’s entree for all civilized people!) was delightful, touched with a light fruit sauce and presented well on the plate. The organic vegetables especially chosen from the cornucopia of Yamaguchi’s harvest matched the centrepiece well. Considering the price, this is a generous serve of decadence that matched the Chablis Premier Cru we chose to lubricate the conversation.

My Pumpkin Soup was a little better than what you’d expect, and I’m still wrestling with the chef for the recipe. It somehow floats across the palate, intriguing and stimulating as it melts even the most demanding gourmand.

We chose the Roast Duck for our main course - do yourself a favor and try this delicacy. The food is obviously prepared by a chef with a passion for food (may his name be praised for generations!), and the salt-rubbed duck delights from first taste to final...lingering...mouthful. A glass of a light Langue d’Oc pinot added liquid fire to the dish, as well as the conversation.

We decided not to have the dessert but opted for cheese (we chose Camembert and Mimoret).

Epices Kaneko (I can’t find a website) has a fistful of regular customers who keep this place a bit of a secret. You should become one of them! I’d also highly recommend Epices Kaneko for a small function or memorable dinner gathering for up to 30 people. The Dark Side Club will be visiting in October 2006.

Rating: Food: 8/10; Wine: 7/10; Service: 8/10; Ambience: 7/10; Price: 8/10. Total: 38/50 (4 Forks)
Epices de Kaneko レストラン　エピスカネコ3-23-14 Nichi Azabu 東京都港区西麻布3-23-14　03-3478-7276Closed on Mondays

Basque-ing in the Atmosphere

17 Sep 2006

In the mood for some Basque and/or French provincial food? With so many establishments focusing on “French” food - meaning Parisian - in Tokyo, there are times when you’d think this is a Mission Impossible. But fear not! Try La pitchouli de Lou lou.

I ventured out to this charming little spot with a friend (The Ad Guy) known for enjoying the finer things in life. The restaurant doesn’t open until 7:00 p.m., but I’d book if I were you as it enjoyed a brisk turnover of tables and eye candy. It was sometimes difficult to keep my companion’s attention on the food and the conversation. Being our first visit, we left the menu up to the “chef”.

We tried the Home-Made Country-Style Pate (自家製田舎風パテ), followed by a Green Salad featuring organic vegetables from Yamanashi Prefecture (山梨県有機野菜のグリーン・サラダ). At this point, a note on the wine: while the selection is small and the prices very reasonable, don’t go looking for famous chateau. The point of La pitchouli de Lou lou is to enjoy the food and the company! You can go for glasses or bottles (huh! Not me...)

The next dish was Loligo Frit (小ヤリイカのフリッツ), a provincial squid fritte dish delicious with salt and the Chablis. This was followed by the piece-de-resistance, Homemade Sausage (自家製ソーセージのロースト). There wasn’t enough of this for two known trenchermen, and I ended up threatening the Ad Guy with a fork to get the last piece.

But wait...the home-made Stewed Salted Pork Back Ribs served Crumby Baked (sic!) (自家製塩漬け豚バラ肉煮込みのパン粉焼き). This is heavenly if you like Iberico Pork like I do, served country style celebrating flavor rather than presentation! Again, a battle for the last piece and I was beginning to regret offering to share all the dishes. The red wine, served in appropriate quantities (2 bottles), seemed to compliment the pork delightfully.

In summary, a good place for a reasonable two or three hours of fine food, good wine, and better company. Take a friend rather than a lover, and ask for the sausage!

Rating: Food: 7/10; Wine: 6/10; Ambience: 7/10; Service: 8/10; Price: 8/10. Total: 36/50 (3 Forks)
La Pitchouli de Lou lou (Don’t blame me for the spelling!)
Ebisu 2-23-3. Open 7pm-3am. Closed Mondays. Tel: 3440-5858 Map Japanese Website

Especially Esperia

9 Aug 2006

Riddle me this - if you’re a Chevalier de Fromage, and just received your award, what would be the first thing you’d do? Right...you’d race back to your kitchen, hastily throw on an apron, and set to making a dreamy cheese sauce for a salad. Obviously.

This is the unlikely story behind the Kakumei Salad at Esperia in Nishi Azabu. Just how revolutionary the salad might be, I’ll leave to your imagination but this is a restaurant you really should try to visit if you’re interested in first class Northern Italian cooking...and cheese.

In the last few days, I’ve enjoyed the company of some sparkling dinner companions. That’s a joy, and part of why I enjoy this Tokyo life so much. But at Esperia, all we were talking about was the food. For the first time, I asked for the chef’s omakase cheese menu as did 3 of my companions. Wine was plentiful and pleasurable. But the food - for someone just back from Northern Italy, who was expecting to be just a little disappointed by Italian cuisine in Japan, was an immediate trip back to Tarvanelle and the delights of Tuscany.

Food: 8/10, Wine 7/10, Ambience: 7/10, Service: 8/10, Price 7/10Overall: 37/50 (3 Forks)
Esperia: 03-5485-1771. Nishi-Azabu 4-11-25.

Izakaya Vin

4 Mar 2006

I’m often in a situation where I need to entertain a guest or two in a relatively relaxed environment. Now, Shibuya is full of places that offer entertainment but these are not really the sorts of places you want to take people. Either you stand out as the only people over 40 in the room, or you’re the youngest people there.

Time warp back four years ago, when Anthony Dowling introduced me to a quirky little izakaya in Shibuya called Izakaya Vin. Located at Dogenzaka 1-5-7, this place is well worth the journey of discovery into the back streets to find it. If you’re hopelessly lost, call 03-3496-2467 in Japanese!

When you think izakaya, the first thing that comes to mind is long, narrow counters reeking of tobacco smoke and filled with non-descript Japanese salarymen for whom the loneliness of the bar is more attractive than home. Put that out of your head!

Well, there is a long narrow counter on the Ground Floor (1 of 3) but that’s where it ends. Founded about 30 years ago, Izakaya Vin is focused on delivering a perfect environment to enjoy wine and bistro-esque food while proudly maintaining its Japanese flavor. Think sort of izakaya, sort of French bistro, sort of Tapas...and you’re beginning to get close!

With over 100 wines to choose from (unfortunately, very tightly concentrated on France) and some great small menu items, it’s not hard to spend hours here. Ironic really, because you might choose Izakaya Vin because of its proximity to the train station yet suddenly realize you’ve missed the last ride home.

I’ve rented all three floors before for a staff party, I’ve gone there with one, two and ten people, and I’ve dropped in by myself. On each occasion, the service has been outstanding and I’ve come away having learnt something new about wine.

Izakaya Vin is not haute cuisine, but it is - to coin a phrase - haute vin. Sometimes, the Master even condescends to give me my favorite Grande Dame champagne at a reasonable price (yes, reasonable is in the eye of the beholder...). But at the same time, you can sample Grand Cru’s (yesterday a Chablis and a Margaux), snack on a more-ish pork rillette or warm vege salad and get out of there under Y20,000 for two.

Definitely a keeper, with a lean towards taking good friends or business associates you’re close to. Not a place for a romantic dinner, but a great venue for conversation and learning more about one another.

Rating: Food 6/10; Wine 10/10; Service 8/10; Ambience 7/10; Price 7/10. Total: 38/50 (One of Terry’s Old Favorite)

Sweet! Sucre Sale

4 Mar 2006

At the suggestion of my harried dinner companion, I recently journeyed all the way (!) to Araki-cho in Shinjuku Ward. What a discovery! 2 or more very extensive blocks of restaurants (including the famous Pas-a-Pas), bars and pubs - I’ve already told my real estate agent I’m looking for something in that area when my lease comes up in June. There’s everything available from Vietnamese to COuntry music!

This delightful little place (seats 24 on my count) fronts a busy street [map] and sits cheek by jowl with the well-patronized Isshin Ramen and is only a few minutes walk from Yotsuya San-Chome or Akebono-bashi Stations.

Take a tip from me - regardless of some sites that don’t rate Sucre Sale, this is well worth a visit. Despite the fact that it doesn’t open until 7:00 pm, Sucre Sale offers genuinely good food at a reasonable price together with a well-considered wine list. The menu offers five different set course menus: Bouquet at 3,675 yen, Pastel at 5,200 yen, Olivier and Soleil at 6,300 yen, and the Chef’s Special Course at 7,350 yen. We both opted for Bouquet and I started with an Endive and Roquefort salad that was stunning...just stunning. My companion was feeling carnivorous, and chose a Pate de Campagne. Judging by the time he took to eat it, and the way he lingered over each bite, this was also a success.

Suitably charged, we moved onto the main courses with a bottle of excellent Chablis Vieilles Vignes Eric Dampt 2002 at a reasonable price (Y5,775). The Pagan went for some absolutely scrumptious Pork with a light mustard sauce while I had the pleasure of some Red Snapper with a Provencal feeling. I have to confess to not being a big fan of fish that’s been long out of the sea, but this time around I was sufficiently surprised to write a mental note to look at some more Madai next time out of the gate. We finished up with a selection of French cheeses, with the normal suspects all available.

If you’re lost for a place to eat between Yotsuya, Ichigaya and Shinjuku then tell your taxi driver Isshin Ramen in Araki-Cho. Then go next door to Sucre Sale...you won’t be dissappointed. And if my real estate agent can get her act together Update - she did!), you might just see me there. I’ll be the fat fool in the corner, giggling...

Rating: Food 7/10; Wine 7/10; Service: 7/10; Ambience: 7/10; Price: 8/10. Overall 36/50 (3 Forks).
Nao-Bld 1F 9-7　Araki-Cyo Shinjyuku-ku, Tokyo, 160-0007; TEL:03-3351-8741 FAX:03-3351-8742Lunch: 12:00 - 14:00 (L.O. 14:00); Dinner: 19:00 - 24:30 (L.O. 24:30) - Closed on TuesdayAverage dinner cost: 5,000 to 7,000 yenCredit Card: JCB/Diners Club /VISA/Master/AMEX

Argent

13 Feb 2006

I had the opportunity to visit Argent in Meguro recently. Argent bills itself as slow food since 1980, and some foodie sites suggest Argent is one of the reasons you would choose to live in Tokyo.

So it was with some excitement and interest that I went along with my super-smart friend. He’s the sort of guy that makes you feel like you’re Pinky and he’s The Brain in the Cartoon Network series. He was generous enough to offer to provide the wine, which in hindsight was both a blessing and a mistake (beautiful French wine chosen from his cellar...problem was quantity not quality. 4 bottles between 2 of us...)

Argent was eloquently explained by The Brain as providing wonderful French “comfort food”. The menu hasn’t changed since 1980, with good reason. Each of the dishes is prepared with delicacy and vitality, and when you’re on a good thing...

We had the fresh Japanese oysters, the country-style terrine, and a great tuna tartare. With lashings of firm baguettes, and a bottle of 1999 Pommard 1-er Cru Les Rugiens by Francois Petit-Jean. Great once it opened up...make that 2 bottles.

I next had the 13 vegetable soup (one of those great French dishes with a hint of romance and a spoonful of heaven). The Brain went back to another terrine, with destruction written clearly all over his face. The wine and the conversation seemed to be getting more elegant and more powerful as we went along.

So it was obviously time to try the Cochin Chicken (with specially grown Nagoya chickens) and the Roast Beef. Delicious both, and delightfully complemented by a 1997 Chateau Lynch-Bages Grand Cru Classe. The conversation seemed to be losing ground to the wine.
According to the Brain, you have the choice of the Raw Cheesecake, Raw Cheesecake, and Raw Cheesecake for dessert. Obviously (I think!)...

The Brain now launched an all-out assault on my brain cells with the 2004 Magie du Chateau Haut Mouleyre Cadillac, which goes to prove that the French can do something with Semillon, although I felt that the Hunter Valley Semillons were probably better. Shush, at this stage I could have been drinking sugar water. By this stage, the conversation had turned to mutual admiration in single-syllable grunts and gestures.

In summary, well-crafted food by a 2nd generation chef who learnt her lessons getting in the way in the kitchen since kindergarten. Argent is a restaurant where you can trust the food not to get in the way of the company, yet come away convinced that you’ve enjoyed yourself.

Score: Food 7/10; Wine 5/10 (but BYO); Ambience 7/10; Service 8/10; Price: 8/10; TOTAL: 35/50 (3 Forks)

One Perfect Day...Alladin!

11 Feb 2006

Just like the line in the song, there are things that come together to make a perfect day. While no day could be perfect without Cheryl here with me, a recent visit to Alladin, reminded me of just how good this restaurant really is! A perfect day in Tokyo would very probably include Alladin for lunch around the middle of February, just when the first crop of white asparagus has arrived from France. It would be one of those sunny late winter Tokyo days, with the sky as clear as Koizumi’s conscience, so the sun would be streaming into the area of the balcony tables. Maitre d’hotel Sato would be waiting at the door, and Chef Kawasaki would have prepared the Tarte Tartin he developed for Andreas Dannenburg. A crisp chablis, properly chilled to about 8 degrees...and Cheryl!

I have to thank Andreas for introducing me to Alladin, again in early February, and again with fresh white asparagus. This visit I was the proud host of a Frenchman who as a long-term resident of Japan had seen restaurants come and go.

Alladin has served some of Tokyo’s best French cuisine since it opened in 1993, and has consistently been at the top of the list for those in the know. How I missed it over years popping in and out of Petit Point is a long story, but a game to die for would be to be Head Judge at an Ryori Tetsujin (Iron Chef) play-off between Alladin’s Kawasaki and Petit Point’s Kitaoka...admittedly, Kitaoka-san is a Chevallier de France and has served as President of Club de Trente.

For lunch - of course - Alladin serves its guests marinated olives (it’s hard not to look greedy when you’re jabbing your guest’s fingers with the skewer) before the Amuse which was an individual warm quiche, and then a fine rillette with scrumptious baguette. For the rest of the meal, lazily spread over 2 hours, we feasted on White Asparagus in a Butter Sauce and a main of Roast Pigeon (Terry), and Salade d’ormeaux & cepes marines as a starter and a main of Fish of the Day (Flounder) for The Guest. All of it outstanding. All of it served at exactly the right temperature, showing only the lightest touch of the warming tray. All of it appearing at exactly the right time.

The the Guest made the mistake of saying no to the outrageously wonderful Tatin that I had especially asked Chef Kawasaki to prepare. His loss, but I won’t invite him there again! I have to admit to a small amount of perverse enjoyment in being able to show French people what real food is like, but sometimes luncheon guests should be treated like the finest wine…enjoyed only rarely and played for every cent.

Maitre d’hotel Sato is kind enough to pay me special attention even though I only visit every other month or so. It all makes for a relaxing and enjoyable relief from the nonsense roaring past outside in the world. In summary, Alladin is one of the restaurants that would be way up high on my list for the perfect lunch on the perfect day. Then again, I’m off to Petit Point next Monday!

As someone who has got lost on the way to Alladin, you might need the map...then again, it could just be me!

Rating: Food 9/10; Wine 8/10; Service 9/10; Ambiance 8/10 (if you’re on the balcony); Price 8/10; Total 42/50 (Terry’s Top 5)

Bon, Monsieur!

6 Feb 2006

One of the delights in living in Tokyo is the wonderful panoply of wonderful restaurants. When Japanese chefs put their mind to creating certain styles of food, they simply do it better than anyone else.

One shining example of this is Bon Monsieur, in the back of Roppongi (Roppongi 7-12-15 opposite Roppongi Park). The first thing that strikes you is that it’s not very hard to get to know the chef - he’s the only person there! Dai Kono is one of those rare breeds of people who get to live their dream. In his case, that dream is to prepare stunning food for a group of very loyal customers.

The fact that Bon Monsieur is not more widely known should come as no surprise - it seats 3 customers at the only table, and another 6 at the counter. A former izakaya, or Japanese traditional bar, it’s literally a “w”hole in the wall that comes to fame in an almost nervous and abashed frame of mind.

My latest visit saw me fleeing Wolfgang Puck Cafe looking for subtle flavors with 2 friends - Kono-san was kind enough to squeeze us into the table, and shift other patrons to the counter. 2 of us decided to leave the menu and the wine to Kono-san via the “Chef’s Choice” option. Depending on your appetite, this costs either Y4000 or Y6000. Our other companion is a self-professed “meat and potatoes” man - with an appetite in exact proportion to his generosity and friendliness. I asked the chef to surprise him...and Kono-san managed this with flair and patience.

My first course was a terrine of fois gras, topped with a dried persimmon and surrounded by the merest hint of honey. If you’ve never tried these flavors together, you’re missing an extraordinary gastronomic insight where 1+1+1 ends up equalling 5. The guest flying solo was dumbstruck to get an organic salad (he’s not much of a fuit-and-veg man) - but he bravely tasted the same, then wrapped his arms around it so nobody else could get some, and pronounced it as the best salad he’s had in a long, long time. Score 1 to the chef!

The braver former Marine and I were then presented with an aji (Sweetfish) carpaccio dressed with a fresh green herb that threatened to be shiso, but matched this sweet freshwater fish exactly! This was such a revelation that I offered to put my body on the line for my Marine buddy and eat it on his behalf. To my deep regret, he declined this generous offer!

Our meat-and-veg man then got presented with a Basque pork chop that might have walked away if it had been given first aid! A known trencherman, he proceeded to devour this delicacy in a style more befitting to a medieval lordling than a Tokyo businessman. But it stopped him in his tracks and he had to surrender - it’s the first time I’ve ever heard him say he was full!
The other two of us also got a taste of this, although smaller portions, and agreed that this was probably the best pork either of us has tasted in many years. 40-love to Kono-san, and only the dessert to come.

I declined, but my two fellow colonists (they forget that America was also a destination for Pommie convicts!) bravely soldiered (Marine-d?) on with a hand-made vanilla bean ice cream and fresh persimmon. The verdict - heavenly! Kono-san had won the day.

For the finest food in a interesting atmosphere, served by one of the most friendly chefs, try Bon Monsieur. I’d advise making a reservation (03-3475-6612).

Rating: Food 9/10 Wine 7/10 Atmosphere 8/10 Service 8/10 Price 9/10 (Y38,000 for 3). Total: 41/50 (4 Forks!)

Monna Lisa - A Masterpiece

26 Jan 2006

At short notice the other day, I reserved a table for 3 at Monna Lisa (sic!) in Ebisu for dinner. Strange how these things turn out, but I enjoyed one of the most memorable food experiences I’ve had for some time!

The first thing that strikes you at Monna Lisa is the sensible layout - space for you to enjoy the company of companions, get attentive service, yet still sticky-beak at what the other diners are enjoying. The wine list is overwhelmingly French, and has obvioulsy been chosen with care and grace.

The food is - simply - exquisite. We chose the set menus (you select the main course). My guest and I both settled on the Y6,800 option, while my young colleague went up-market to the Y10,000 course. Chef Kawano knows how to delight his guests and the delicacy of each course serves to build anticipation while at the same time a sense of wonder at how each element complements the other.

Our menu was:
- Amuse Boche (a small slice of home-made pate de campagne served on a slice of fried lotus leaf)
- Croustillant de langoustines frit, sauce a la vanille Quick-fried coated prawns with vanilla sauce
- Saint-jacques poelees et soupe de “Komatsuna” Poached scallops in a komatsuna soup
- Cuisse de canardet poireau en croute, sauce vin rouge Peppered Duck Thighs in Pastry with a red wine sauce
- Patisseries

The wines we chose were the 2003 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos (Vocoret) and the 1998 Chateau Lascombes (Margaux) which matched the meal perfectly. In summary, this is a fine dining choice to impress or to delight. For 3, Y68,000.

Rating: Food: 9/10; Wine 8/10; Ambience: 7/10; Service: 8/10; Price: 7/10. Total: 39/50 (4 Forks)