Longing for More - De' Longhi

Imagine, Gentle Reader, my sense of foreboding and dank depression when I invited Sir James out recently for a meal. James, one word from whom has been known to stop seasoned chefs in their tracks. James, whose predilection for French wines is both a notorious and expensive habit to support. James, whose palpable intelligence and predilection for cigars and cognac is legendary.

We journeyed to De'Longhi in Daikanyama, where I had previously been deeply impressed by Chef's care and light touch at a dinner with The Ad Guy.

When I was a young thing growing up, "da longie" was the stick we used to get the tennis ball out of the creek. But it seems to have morphed into a very attractive and laid-back cathedral to Italian lifestyle solutions offered by this innovative firm. Well done, brave De' Longhi!

The food at De'Longhi is exquisite and despite the diverse tastes and background of the group I had assembled at table (English, New York, upstate Washington, Germany, and Australia), we were all delighted with the food and most of the wine. James is not fond of Italian whites, but I sincerely believe that De' Longhi's list is well-balanced and worth exploring.

De'Longhi also offers jazz and other events that absolutely require a booking. It's wonderful to see this place offer a new view on lifestyle, and I'm a confirmed fan. If enough of you go there with lovers or friends, then it will remain a highlight of this Tokyo life.

Rating: Food: 8/10; Wine: 7/10; Ambiance: 8/10; Service: 8/10; Price ($$): 7/10. Total: 38/50

DeLonghi Tokyo: 24-7 Saruraku-Cho, Shibuya (Daikanyama is the closest station). Tel: 5428-4631

La Cite - Casual elegance and great food!

One struggles, Gentle Reader, when asked to choose a casual yet sophisticated restaurant in Tokyo. So much choice, and so little shared knowledge. I suppose that is the point of this blog and others - to battle through the Michelin and Zagat hyperbole, yet provide you with (hopefully) an amusing guide to foodie life here in the Big Mikan.

At this point, let me introduce with considerable chagrin my friend Dominic Carter (http://www.tokyoeater.blogspot.com/) who writes exceedingly well about the topic at hand. His mother advised a hobby, and he has certainly taken to this one with abandon. I like the airline class metaphor he uses, and he has exquisite taste.

Looking at a dinner opportunity with The Expat, I took Dominic's advice on Bistro de la Cite [Map] in Nishi Azabu. We wanted to talk work stuff, yet dine with at least a little casual elegance at a mutually convenient location.

I hadn't ventured here for some 10 years, having a vague recollection of a bland and disconcerting disappointment around a duck confit. Pshaw! Put such thoughts out of your mind, Gentle Reader. From the marinated olives we enjoyed with a 2005 Sancerre through to the cheese and Tarte Tatin finale, this meal was carefully prepared and served with friendliness and considerable care.

I chose a French Onion Gratin Soup which The Expat matched with a Terrine de Campagne. Both of these were excellent, and filled the plate without burdening the eye. Our main meals were the Fish of the Day (flounder) for me during my Lenten fast, and a Duck Confit for His Eminence (gris). He pronounced the confit as "delectable", and the potato gnocchi+dried tomato+shrimp sauce that dressed the fish was outstanding.

The check surprised at less than Y20,000 including the wine. All in all, Bistro de la Cite is well worth a visit with colleagues or lovers, offering a pleasant yet sophisticated environment together with fine food and great service. Vive la Cite!

Rating: Food: 8/10; Wine: 7/10; Ambiance: 7/10; Service: 8/10; Price ($$): 7/10. Total: 37/50
Bistro de la Cite: 4-2-10 Nishi-Azabu, Minato Ward. Tel: (03) 3406-5475. Closed Mondays.
[Map]

A Place for Lost Boys

Twice recently I've had the pleasure of eating at Le garcon de la vigne in Hiroo. A little out of the way, but trust me ... the result is well worth the journey of discovery (Map). Head down from the subway station all the way past Smash Hits to the end of the Hiroo shopping street, and turn left. It's less than 100 meters down on the left side with a large wine cask outside.

The restaurant name translates as "the boy of the vines", a reference to Front-of-House Iino-san's soujourn in France after serving as sommelier at Marche aux Vin Yamada in Minami Aoyama. It seems Iino-san was led to some sort of inspiration by this experience, and Le garcon de la vigne is the result. Watanabe-san is the chef at this eclectic little jewel, creating great food from the ever-changing materials sent by the contract farmers.

Forgive me for being a little flippant, but these two remind me of Peter Pan's lost boys, forever playing at adventure and not worrying about the world slipping by. And it's a grand result - at any time I expected Robin Williams to bounce out from behind the bar to start a food fight. don't get me wrong - I love it. After all, my kids have twice given me Christmas gifts of marbles and a box to keep them in! I am definitely a lost boy playing at Neverland in Tokyo.

The deal here, Gentle Reader, is that Iino-san and Watanabe-san are completely committed to "natural" cuisine - organic where possible, with free-range/wild catch meats and fish - and it shows through. The farmers and suppliers are trusted to send whatever is in season and at its peak. What a breathe of fresh air, and what a result!

I've journeyed there for pleasure and for business, and while Iino-san can seem a little eccentric at times, the meal and the atmosphere have been outstanding. You'll need to know your French organic wines to sort your way through the wine list - or like me, you can leave it to Iino-san.

I've really enjoyed the warm vegetables served here as an entree, as well as Roast Pork cutlet and the Veal filet with truffle sauce as main dishes. You can opt for cheese instead of dessert, and they serve herb teas post-prandially. There are 2 course options for dinner at Y3,800 and Y6,000 which represent great value for money. Do yourself a favor and make this place one of your regular haunts - you'll be supporting a brave adventure by Messrs Iino and Watanabe, and maybe you could become a lost boy too!

Rating:
Food: 7/10; Wine: 7/10; Service: 7/10; Ambiance: 7/10; Price: 7/10 ($). Total: 35/50
Le garcon de la vigne: Hiroo 5-17-11-1F　03-3445-6626

Le Marche Shines Through!

You may recall, Gentle Reader, that I introduced Le Marche aux Puces (LMaP) in November as a pleasant spot for a Sunday brunch, coming with the recommendation of a friend well-connected to the French Embassy. Intrigued by that encounter, I recently sallied forth with my dubious group of evening diners (Tokyo Darkside) to test the dinner options.

Oh joy! Oh bliss! Not only did the fleas behave themselves, but the 11 brave Knights of the Darkside agreed that we had found ourselves one of Tokyo's hidden secrets at a simply unbelievable price.

Serving 11 is never easy, particularly when there is plenty to interest the punters on the bill of fare. LMaP managed this feat with no fuss, plenty of friendly cross-lingual banter, and lashings of quiet efficiency. From among the entree (starter) on the menu, people variously chose Warmed Lobster en Croute, Marinated Salmon with Dill Sauce, Boudin en Croute, Salad Nicoise, Terrine de Foie Gras, and Pate de Canard (your humble correspondent!). Each and every punter reported a great start to the meal, ably lubricated with numerous examples of Chablis and Sancerre white wines at very reasonable prices.

Les Plats that were enjoyed by the madding crowd of Darksiders included Sirloin of Vension in Red Wine Pepper sauce, Thigh of Duck Challandais confit, Coquilles St Jacques Provencal, Lamb Chops in thyme sauce, Fresh fish of the day and Scallops in lobster sauce, Roast Pigeon, Sausgae Andouillete on Lentils. I had the pleasure of the last on this list, and it was magnificent! King Arthur chose a round little Burgundy to go with the dinner.

The rustic campagne cooking at LMaP is among the best in Tokyo, and that's saying something! And here's the kicker - dinner runs to Y3,200 per head for 3 courses, and the wine is very reasonably well-priced. That's an incredible deal, and even with the very thirsty Darksiders imbibing at their best full steam ahead, the whole dinner only came to Y9,000 per head.

I'm now prepared to enjoy LMaP with colleagues and with lovers, friends and scaly mates.

Rating:
Food: 8/10; Wine: 7/10; Service: 7/10; Ambiance: 7/10; Price: 8/10 ($). Total: 37/50
LMaP: Ebisu 2-5-8, Shibuya-Ku (03) 5420-3691 (Map)

Little Twin Stars - L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon

Well it's been a while, Gentle Reader, but that absence has been driven by a lack of material rather than a shortage of will. Over the next few days, I'll add some posts on the 4 decent places I've enjoyed since December.

But this post celebrates a recent visit to the 2-star L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon (Map) at Roppongi Hills. We were with "Elliott", as the wonderful sommelier Diego shouted across the busy crowd as we were arriving. The Don must have done something to mark himself in Diego's memory, but discretion is always the better part of valour in dealing with someone as closely connected to the bee consciousness as Don.

Suffice to say, Gentle Reader, that I now understand why the Tokyo restaurant is the only one of the six-odd L'Atelier spread around the world to rate a second star from Michelin. We initially counted ourselves fortunate to score a table (the redoubtable Diego calling The Don on his mobile at 18:00 to confirm the same splash of luck), but on reflection there may be more theatre on display at the counter.

We (Don and I) indulged in the degustation menu, and we agreed that this is a tribute to great food, fashioned by the ateliers [lit. studio in French] of Robuchon in Paris as a way to take diners on a journey lit by flashes of brilliance and precocity. Only one of the 8 courses (Fish: Hata) was not worthy of a 2-Star - but it would have been quite at home in any of the other 1-stars in Michelin's recently released Tokyo edition.

Diego's wine selections were quite the thing as well, drilling in on an interesting Foret Chablis for the early going and navigating seamlessly to a Chateauneuf-de-Pape Beaucastel. Excellent!

Menus change often, and a reservation can sometime be difficult but I recommend that you find an excuse to get yourself along to L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon with a lover or a foodie as soon as you can!

Rating:
Food: 9/10; Wine: 8/10; Service: 7/10; Ambiance: 9/10; Price: 8/10 ($$$). Total: 43/50

L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon (Map): Roppongi Hills, Hillside 220. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily. Tel: 5772-7500.