Wolfgang Puck - Enough Already!

I'm told, Gentle Reader, that Wolfgang Puck is a chef of some renown in the United States. But so, for that matter, is Colonel Sanders. There are excellent chefs in the USA. There are excellent restaurants as well. There are elements of Californian cuisine, and the passion of its foodies for quality ingredients, that thrill me. I have eaten well in San Diego, Los Angeles, Santa Monica and many other places.

But in my limited dining experience in that fine country, outside the more famous dining venues, finesse and consistency often run a very sad second to imagination and innovation. Except in New York, which seems strangely blessed with a bevy of fine dining establishments. Perhaps it's some esoteric influence of the Statue of Liberty, holding up her hand lighting the way to epicurean enjoyment. Or perhaps not ...

For most of us, Puck is a character in Shakespeare's A Midsummer Night's Dream - the "shrewd and knavish sprite" and "merry wanderer of the night", officially Jester to the Fairy King Oberon. Which might explain the fact that most of Wolfgang's food is insubstantial, ephemeral to the point of being tasteless, and presented as if the magic is to be found in the mouth rather than the eyes. But I digress ...

Your Humble Correspondent has now braved four of Mr Puck's venues here in Japan, and two in the United States. All have been unmitigated culinary disasters. My first experience, in SoCal, was after a 22 hour flight from Sydney so I thought my taste buds were jet-lagged. My most recent sortie in Yokohama was only redeemed by a charming gentleman companion, sweet service from the dedicated staff, and a bottomless 7-Up on a warm day.

The salad was salad-y, the bread was doughy, and the olive oil was oily. But these were a tempting fairy illusion, Gentle Readers, compared with the noxious pap that presented as Herb Chicken. One fears Mr Puck is on an economy drive, as the pan was obviously not hot enough to give the chicken any body or toothiness. The skin may have been browned with a blowtorch, but it was not crisped unless one's definition of "crisp" is something south of the wrinkles on the late George Burns' face.

All of which is a great pity, because the location calls for something a little better. Forewarned is forearmed, Gentle Reader, so don't go looking for your Humble Correspondent in one of Mr Puck's establishments. And keep your friends and children away, for fear they'll come to think that this is American or Californian cuisine.

Wolfgang Puck: Various locations with maps on the website, should one be curious enough to want them
Rating: Food: 2/10; 7-Up: 7/10; Service: 6/10; Ambiance: 3/10; Price: 2/10 (it was free, and represented poor value for money). Total: 20/50

Va Tout - No risk!

People more intelligent than I, Gentle Reader, tell me that "va-tout" means to risk everything in French. A colloquial translation - rather rough I admit - might be "go for broke". Apropos of nothing really, save that your Humble Correspondent recently had the pleasure of a risk-free assignation with the Child Bride at Brasserie Va Tout [Map] which decorates rather festively the front of the Axis Building in Roppongi.

I had also touted this venue - much like a guilty secret, perhaps - to El Presidente, vouchsafing that it was not a "fancy" place and that, yes Virginia, lots of Americans ate there too. Lord Jim had introduced me to said restaurant with the promise that it served the best fries in Tokyo, and being converted, your Humble Correspondent is currently on a Belushi-esque "mission from God" to share the secret with as many people as possible.

Va Tout is the sort of comfortable and friendly restaurant that hotels should offer, and never do. Little fuss, and quiet professionalism mean that the dining public can simply relax and enjoy the fulsome array of options that the menu provides. Some time examining the chalkboard for the daily speciality dishes will almost always be rewarded with the discovery of a little gem - the Child Bride's Croustillade de Langoustine being an excellent example on our last visit. The wine list is also worth a close perusal, and you will most often be presented with a small sample before making your final decision. This too is a habit many other establishments should emulate.

But for your Humble Correspondent, the beauty of Va Tout is that it offers simple yet delicious French "comfort food", often a life line for a palate jaded by so much exploration and experimentation on behalf of the multitude of Gentle Readers looking to enjoy the delights of the world's greatest food city. The fries are indeed the best in Tokyo, and my habitual omelet never fails to delight. Or a Croque Monsieur, expertly turned out yet not requiring a second mortgage like some others (think Grand and Roppongi in the same breath) on offer in the neighbourhood. Simple yet delicious meat dishes, and seasonal vegetables and salads round out the palette of flavours.

Va Tout is also pleasantly inexpensive - certainly well under Y20K for two with wine - and excellent value-for-money, a fact that in itself recommends it to your Penurious Correspondent. Perhaps a little too much bric-a-brac, but not so much that one feels like one's in a tourist center.

So I recommend toddling along with friends and familial visitors rather than one's superiors. Light on the palate, light on the fussiness, and light on the purse. And should you happen to see someone resembling the Michelin Man wolfing down an omelet, do pop over for a little chin wag, won't you?

Va Tout [Map] : AXIS Building, 5-17-1 Roppongi, Minato Ward. t: 03-3568-2080
Rating: Food: 7/10; Wine: 6/10; Service: 7/10; Ambiance: 7/10; Value ($$): 7/10. Total: 34/50

La Cometa - Stellar!

You may have noticed, Gentle Reader, a certain predilection on the part of your Humble Correspondent for French and Italian cuisine. Which is not in itself a bad thing, but which can sometimes lead to monotony. One is always on the search for new venues, with a high likelihood of disappointment.

So imagine my delight when introduced to a "new" establishment within a gentle stroll from the Hellhole - La Cometa [no website, but Tabelog entry here] is in Azabu Juban just below Toriizaka, on the second floor up a gentle set of stairs. "New" is rather an odd choice of words in this case, for La Cometa has been delighting customers for more than 25 years ... and despite the fact that your Humble Correspondent has been disturbing the good burghers of that fine village for the best part of 15 of those years, I had never taken the opportunity to try the fare.

So in the company of the gentle friends of the Tokyo Darkside, I made forth to repair this oversight with the Child Bride. Young Joseph had negotiated a seemly menu with Chef, which more than satisfied for a very reasonable price (Y6,000). He had also been shopping for some wine in the Italian section of Nissen (may their praises be sung for generations!), and had come up with a mouth-watering Gavi de Gavi white wine, and a choice of Chianti Classico or Montepulciano reds.

Make no mistake - the food here is good, wholesome, and thoughtful. While La Cometa is not likely to win a Michelin Star or Silver Spoon any time soon, such a goal is likely the furtherest thing from the proprietors' minds. Full marks to them for focusing on quality and imagination, rather than being all skirt and no knickers like some other "hussies" doing the rounds in Tokyo.

While we welcomed a number of new Darkside participants, this venue is small enough to feel comfortable and large enough to accomodate around 20 punters. I like the clean and uncomplicated atmosphere - far too many restaurants that have been running for some time tend to collect more bric-a-brac than the Antique Roadshow (it seems to me that many of these are Italian restaurants ... maybe it's something in the parmesano?).

Service here is happy and bustling, much like one would expect in a rural osteria, and La Cometa has a patina of friendliness that I for one enjoy above all else. Your Humble Correspondent fully expects to become a regular customer of this fine hostelerie, which fact may convince some to stay well clear!

Visit La Cometa with family and friends, and expect to share a variety of well-prepared Italian classics dusted with the occasional dash of magic. Look out for the portly and vaguely familar figure in the corner - he's sure to raise a glass ... and have it added to your account!

La Cometa [Map]: 2nd Floor, 1-7-2 Azabu Juban, Minato Ward. t: 03-3470-5105
Rating: Food: 7/10; Friendliness: 7/10; Service: 7/10; Ambiance: 7/10; Value ($$): 7/10. Total: 35/50

Harmonie - Bistro de Paris en Nishi-Azabu

Three's a treat, they say, and Harmonie is the third venue operated by Chef Jitsuhiro Yamada of Cogito and Marche aux Vins fame. Your Humble Correspondent is ever vigilant on your behalf, Gentle Reader, and it had not escaped my attention that it remained firmly in the "Must Visit" column of my mental notebook. So, with considerable aplomb and much anticipation, I bobbed off to Nishi Azabu to catch up with my former right-hand girl the redoubtable Ms Motonaga.

A word of advice about the maps on most English language sites who list this venue - do not even try to use them without an Ancient Sumerian Cuneiform dictionary. One needs the luck of Howard Carter's waterboy or the tenacity of Heinrich Schliemann to find the blessed place! Use this one in Japanese from Tabelog, or find a Google or Yahoo variant.

The restaurant has all the charm of a rustic French restaurant and is decorated with antiques personally chosen by Chef Yamada. When I last spoke to Chef, he explained that he established Harmonie to create the sort of place he himself would like to visit once the day's work was done. If so, he has excellent taste. The atmosphere at Harmonie is elegant yet friendly, and the service is exemplary.

Our meal (we both chose the "two plate" option with one entree and one main dish) fitted well with the venue - sophisticated, well-presented, and showing a dab hand in balancing flavor with fashion. I particularly recommend the duck here, as well as the excellent terrine which vanished off my plate in a nano-second (Ms Motonaga? Moto-second?). The servings are generous without being scales-smashing. The floor staff keeps a weather eye on the progress at each table, and dishes are delivered on time at optimal temperature.

We shared a bottle of Graves that was reasonably priced and precisely chilled. A range of excellent wines are available by the glass, and the bar downstairs is small yet comfortable.

Visit Harmonie with friends and lovers, or for a romantic proposal [there is actually a small curtained booth that seems perfect for an assignation, although perhaps a little small for the whole bended knee thing]. Your Humble Correspondent shall certainly be visiting again soon with the Child Bride - this excellent little restaurant is both close by and reasonably priced.

In the culinary desert of this part of Nishi-Azabu, Harmonie is a God-send. Do visit, and be a good chap (chap-ette) by generously adding that you read the blog. Either that, or pick up the tab for the fat boy with the soup bowl eyes ...

Harmonie: Nishi-Azabu 4-2-15, Minato Ward. t: 03-5466-6655
Rating: Food: 7/10; Wine: 7/10; Service: 8/10; Ambiance: 8/10; Value ($$): 8/10. Total: 38/50

Brin de Muguet - Veni, Vidi, Epuli

Among the coterie that makes up my nearest and dearest, Gentle Reader, Cost Center #3 has always been a little fey. Nice girl and all, but a little fey. Fey enough to have discovered a love for ancient Greek and Latin well towards the end of a degree in Economics. Fey enough to imagine that others are interested in feminine declensions in the votive etc etc. Fey enough, indeed, to actually want to visit 108 temples during a recent Grand Tour of the Ancient World.

Which came to mind - somewhat haphazardly I'll admit - when the Child Bride and your Humble Correspondent travelled to Ogikubo recently for a wine tasting hosted by the genial Eric Dahler at Brin de Muguet. Ogikubo is quite a journey from the more civilized areas your Humble Correspondent typically haunts, and the good man we engaged to deliver us to the restaurant confessed little more than a passing knowledge of the area apart from the railway station. Truth to tell, I felt a little like Julius Caesar conquering the Gauls. Or Hannibal crossing the Alps, although our mode of transport only resembled an elephant in the same way that a banana resembles an Airbus.

Brin de Muguet has been adding a different face to Ogikubo for more than 10 years as the first of Richard Rodot's culinary enterprises in Japan, joined later by four branches of Le Jardin de Gaulois. One senses the revenge of Asterix in all of this, but with successful establishments in the Shin-Maru Building and Printemps in Ginza there can be little doubt that Richard has hit on a successful model.

There is little of the rustic about the menu - on our visit, YHC and the Child Bride particularly enjoyed the Mousse de carotte et son consomme de homard en gelee, a delicate Gratin de fruit de mer a la creme safranee, and a very well-prepared Daube de boeuf au vin rouge au parfum d'orange. Considering Chef was cooking for around 20, the kitchen did a fine job.

Eric's wine, as ever, were a highlight of the evening. I was impressed with the 2006 Pessac-Leognan and the 2005 Margaux Chateau d'Arsac. At Eric's mostly reasonable prices, you can do little harm, Gentle Reader, by ordering these for your next dinner party or soiree.

Were one ever to consider crossing the Yamanote barrier again, Brin de Muguet would be high on my list of potential destinations. This is a good restaurant with a professional floor crew matched by a very competent kitchen team and I suspect - given a little encouragement - the menu de jour could be well worth exploring. There seems a sense of play and experimentation, or perhaps confidence, that is missing in most surburban French establishment in Tokyo. I should not be surprised if it might rise to 4 forks.

Brin de Muguet is a restaurant to enjoy with friends and lovers. And should you visit, please consider a small donation to the Cost Center #3 Relief Fund whereby we shall do our very best to rescue said fey Child from the fairies. Or at least buy a bottle of La Grande Dame to enjoy with The Child Bride, and toast eccentricity!

Brin de Muguet: 5-14-4 Ogikubo, Suginami Ward. t: 03-3220-5448
Rating: Food: 7/10; Gallic-ness: 7/10; Service: 7/10; Ambiance: 8/10; Price ($$): 8/10. Total: 37/50